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Kosmetyki ze śluzem ślimaka - najczęściej zadawane pytania

Kosmetyki ze śluzem ślimaka - najczęściej zadawane pytania

by Marianna Baranowska - beauty expert

W artykule tym opiszę najczęściej zadawane nam pytania o kosmetyki ze śluzem ślimaka i o sam śluz ślimaka.

Spis treści

  • Czym jest śluz ślimaka?
  • Skąd pochodzi śluz ślimaka stosowany w kosmetykach?
  • Jak powstaje filtrat śluzu ślimaka?
  • Jakie składniki aktywne zawiera śluz ślimaka?
  • Jak działa śluz ślimaka na skórę?
  • Jakie właściwości pielęgnacyjne ma śluz ślimaka?
  • Dlaczego śluz ślimaka jest tak popularny w kosmetyce koreańskiej?
  • Czym różni się czysty śluz ślimaka od filtratu śluzu ślimaka?
  • Czy kosmetyk może zawierać 90% śluzu ślimaka?
  • Czy śluz ślimaka jest składnikiem bezpiecznym dla skóry?
  • Czy śluz ślimaka jest odpowiedni dla skóry wrażliwej?
  • Czy śluz ślimaka może powodować podrażnienia?
  • Jak rozpoznać śluz ślimaka w składzie INCI?
  • Czy śluz ślimaka jest składnikiem wegańskim?
  • Czy pozyskiwanie śluzu ślimaka jest etyczne?

 

Czym jest śluz ślimaka?

Śluz ślimaka w kosmetykach to zwykle nie „czysty śluz”, tylko surowiec określany jako Snail Secretion Filtrate - produkt otrzymany z filtrowanej wydzieliny ślimaków. 

Skąd pochodzi śluz ślimaka stosowany w kosmetykach?

Surowiec pochodzi z wydzieliny ślimaków pozyskiwanej i następnie filtrowanej/oczyszczanej, a gotowy składnik trafia do INCI jako Snail Secretion Filtrate. 

Jak powstaje filtrat śluzu ślimaka?

Filtrat śluzu ślimaka powstaje przez zebranie wydzieliny, a następnie jej filtrację i oczyszczenie, by składnik był bezpieczny i stabilny w kosmetyku. 

Jakie składniki aktywne zawiera śluz ślimaka?

W publikacjach najczęściej wymienia się m.in. alantoinę, glikoproteiny/mucyny, glikozoaminoglikany (GAG), kwasy AHA (np. glikolowy, mlekowy), białka/peptydy oraz składniki wspierające procesy regeneracyjne skóry.

Jak działa śluz ślimaka na skórę?

Dane z badań przedklinicznych sugerują, że SSF może wspierać procesy naprawcze skóry (m.in. modulację zapalenia i przebudowę macierzy), a badania kliniczne wskazują na poprawę wybranych parametrów skóry, takich jak oznaki starzenia czy nawilżenie.

Jakie są najmocniejsze typy dowodów?

  • Badania na modelach komórkowych (mechanizmy: gojenie, kolagen, markery zapalne).
  • Badania na ludziach (zwykle mniejsze, kosmetologiczne; efekty dotyczą m.in. wyglądu skóry i oznak starzenia).

esencja śluz ślimaka orientana

Jakie właściwości pielęgnacyjne ma śluz ślimaka?

Śluz ślimaka (SSF) jest najczęściej opisywany jako składnik wspierający nawilżenie, wygładzenie tekstury skóry, komfort oraz regenerację, a w części badań także poprawę parametrów związanych z oznakami starzenia.

Dlaczego śluz ślimaka jest tak popularny w kosmetyce koreańskiej?

Popularność śluzu ślimaka w K-beauty wiąże się z naciskiem na nawilżenie, ukojenie i poprawę tekstury skóry, a także z marketingiem opartym na „skin barrier” i regeneracji.


krem pod oczy ze śluzem ślimaka

Czym różni się czysty śluz ślimaka od filtratu śluzu ślimaka?

„Czysty śluz” jest surową wydzieliną, natomiast filtrat (SSF) to składnik filtrowany i oczyszczany, opisany w INCI i stosowany jako surowiec kosmetyczny.

Czy kosmetyk może zawierać 90% śluzu ślimaka?

Hasło „90%” zwykle oznacza wysoki udział roztworu filtratu w fazie wodnej produktu, a nie 90% „czystego śluzu” w sensie dosłownym.

Czy śluz ślimaka jest składnikiem bezpiecznym dla skóry?

W przeglądach i badaniach klinicznych SSF bywa opisywany jako składnik generalnie dobrze tolerowany, choć jako każdy składnik kosmetyczny może wywołać reakcje u części osób.

Czy śluz ślimaka jest odpowiedni dla skóry wrażliwej?

Może być odpowiedni, ale wrażliwa skóra jest nieprzewidywalna — dlatego zaleca się test płatkowy / próbę przed pełnym włączeniem do rutyny.

Czy śluz ślimaka może powodować podrażnienia?

Tak, rzadko i najczęściej z powodu indywidualnej nadwrażliwości lub współistnienia innych czynników drażniących w rutynie

Co zwiększa ryzyko podrażnień? 

  • osłabiona bariera po intensywnym złuszczaniu/zabiegach,
  • łączenie wielu silnych aktywnych naraz,
  • nadwrażliwość na składniki kompozycji (np. zapach).

Jak rozpoznać śluz ślimaka w składzie INCI?

Szukaj nazwy SNAIL SECRETION FILTRATE (czasem też wariantów fermentowanych, zależnie od produktu).

Czy śluz ślimaka jest składnikiem wegańskim?

Nie, ponieważ jest pochodzenia zwierzęcego, SSF nie spełnia standardowej definicji „vegan” w kosmetykach.

Czy pozyskiwanie śluzu ślimaka jest etyczne?

To temat dyskutowany, część marek deklaruje „humanitarne” metody pozyskiwania, ale ocena etyczna zależy od standardów hodowli i praktyk producenta, dlatego warto pytać producentów. Orientana pozyskuje śluz ślimaka w sposób etyczny.

Bibliografia

  1. CosIng (Komisja Europejska) - wpis INCI „Snail Secretion Filtrate” (definicja składnika).
  2. Lim VZ i wsp., 2020 - badanie kliniczne dot. reżimu kosmetycznego z udziałem filtratu wydzieliny ślimaka i oceną oznak starzenia.
  3. Gugliandolo E i wsp., 2021 - SSF w modelu gojenia ran (markery zapalne, kolagen, przebudowa tkanek).
  4. Singh N i wsp., 2024 - przegląd „Snail extract for skin” (skład, zastosowania, kontekst kosmetyczny).
  5. Aflatooni i wsp., 2024 - przegląd systematyczny dot. efektów składników pochodzenia ślimaczego na skórę (w tym badania kliniczne).
  6. Wojnarowicz J i wsp., 2021 - opracowanie przeglądowe dot. składu i zastosowań śluzu ślimaka w kosmetyce.
  7. Wargala/Kot i wsp., 2023 (PDF) - artykuł przeglądowy o śluzie ślimaka jako składniku, z odniesieniem do nomenklatury CosIng i typowych form surowca.
  8. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2022 - badanie skuteczności i bezpieczeństwa serum z SSF (i innymi ekstraktami) – (źródło wydawnicze Wiley).

Odkryj pełną linię kosmetyków Orientana ze śluzem ślimaka

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