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Bioretinol - biotechnologiczna przyszłość anti-aging

Bioretinol - the biotechnological future of anti-aging

by Anna Wasilewska - founder of the Orientana brand

Retinol is the undisputed king of anti-aging ingredients , but its traditional form brings with it a number of problems: irritation, photosensitivity, instability and limited skin tolerance.

Biotechnology offers a revolutionary solution to these problems in the form of Novo-Retin - a new generation of biotechnological retinol, also called bioretinol or phytoretinol .

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Why did Orientana use bioretinol in its anti-wrinkle eye cream?

Less risk of irritation and peeling

Retinol often causes irritation—redness, flaking, and dry skin, especially on the thin skin around the eyes. NovoRetin™ is described as gentler: it doesn't strip the skin's natural barrier, increases moisture, and doesn't cause as much dryness.

Stable and can also be used during the day / in brighter conditions

Retinol is sensitive to light and oxidation – it's often used only in the evening and requires careful protection (e.g., good packaging, UV filter). NovoRetin™ offers greater stability: it's described as an ingredient that doesn't degrade as easily in light, which can provide greater flexibility in use.
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Anti-aging and firming effects

In clinical studies, 28 days of using 2% NovoRetin™ resulted in increased skin elasticity and density, as well as reduced wrinkles and pores. The anti-wrinkle effect was confirmed in application studies of Orientana Eye Cream – it reduced the appearance of wrinkles, reduced wrinkle length, and reduced wrinkle depth.

Moisturizing effects

Unlike retinol, which often dehydrates the skin (especially at the beginning of use), NovoRetin™—according to manufacturers and product descriptions—improves skin's moisture retention. This is especially important under the eyes, where thin tissue loses moisture more easily. Studies of Orientana's eye cream with phytoretinol have shown that the cream immediately improves skin hydration.

Less photosensitivity

Retinoids (including retinol) can increase skin's sensitivity to UV radiation, necessitating the use of sunscreen. NovoRetin™ is promoted as a photosensitizing ingredient—which may mean it's safer to use in the morning or when exposed to light.

Multidirectional action

In addition to its anti-aging properties, NovoRetin™ also addresses pores, excessive shine, imperfections, and discoloration. Therefore, it may be better as a component of a comprehensive eye care regimen, not just as a wrinkle-reducing ingredient.

What is Bioretinol NovoRetin™?

NovoRetin™ is an innovative raw ingredient - bioretinol, which increases the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin, leading to an effect similar to retinol .

Bioretinol creation process:

  1. Raw material basis : Mastic is used - an aromatic resin produced by the lentisk tree (Pistacia lentiscus), which has been valued for its therapeutic and care properties since ancient times.
  2. Innovative bioavailability system : A unique skin delivery system has been developed that makes bioretinol bioavailable to the skin.
  3. Water-soluble process : Thanks to the technology used, a water-soluble product is created, which eliminates previous problems with the formulation of cosmetics containing mastic.
  4. The end result : NovoRetin™ is easy to formulate and offers an innovative alternative to retinol in skincare formulations because it enhances the levels of naturally occurring retinoids in the skin.

The mechanism of action of bioretinol

Novo-Retin works on the same receptors as traditional retinol (RAR and RXR receptors), but in a much more gentle and controlled manner. Instead of bombarding the skin with high concentrations of the active ingredient, biotechnological retinol is released gradually, allowing the skin to adapt to its effects.

The key difference lies in the activation method. Traditional retinol must be converted by skin enzymes into its active form, retinoic acid. This conversion process often leads to irritation and unpredictable reactions. Novo-Retin already contains precursors that are gently released and activated in response to the skin's needs.

Actions at the cellular level include:

  • Stimulation of cell renewal - accelerating the natural process of exfoliation of the epidermis
  • Increasing collagen production - activation of fibroblasts in the dermis
  • Regulation of sebum production - normalization of the function of the sebaceous glands
  • Antioxidant effect - protection against free radicals

Advantages of bioretinol used in Orientana eye cream compared to traditional retinol

Elimination of retinoid dermatitis

This is the greatest advantage of biotechnological retinol. Novo-Retin does not cause the characteristic "retinol burn"—redness, peeling, and irritation that often accompany the use of traditional retinoids.

No photosensitivity

This means Novo-Retin can also be used during the day, unlike traditional retinol, which increases skin's sensitivity to UV radiation. This revolutionary change makes it much easier to incorporate retinol into your daily skincare routine.

Stability in the formula

Here's another key advantage: Traditional retinol is extremely unstable—it degrades when exposed to light, air, and heat. Novo-Retin retains its activity for a much longer period of time, which translates into greater effectiveness of the final products.

Compatibility with other ingredients

Compatibility with other ingredients is significantly improved. Novo-Retin can be safely combined with vitamin C and AHA/BHA acids – combinations that could be problematic with traditional retinol.

Safety during pregnancy

This is an added advantage - although you should always consult your doctor, Novo-Retin does not exhibit the developmental toxicity characteristic of high doses of retinoids.

Clinical studies and the effectiveness of bioretinol

A comparative study of Novo-Retin vs. retinol 0.5% conducted on a group of 120 people for 12 weeks showed:

  • Wrinkle reduction : Novo-Retin 28% vs. retinol 25%
  • Improved elasticity : Novo-Retin 31% vs. retinol 24%
  • Reduction of discoloration : Novo-Retin 34% vs. retinol 29%
  • Skin irritations : Novo-Retin 5% vs. retinol 47%

Long-term safety studies covering 6 months of use showed no adverse side effects, while the group using traditional retinol reported 23% of cases of persistent irritation.

The studies on sensitive skin are particularly impressive – 89% of people with sensitive skin tolerated Novo-Retin without any negative reactions, while only 12% could use traditional retinol.

* manufacturer's tests

The Future of Biotechnological Retinoids

New generations of bio-retinols are already in the research phase. Scientists are developing molecules that will be even more selective in their action, activating only those receptors responsible for positive anti-aging effects, without affecting those that cause irritation.

Personalization of bio-retinols based on genetic analysis will allow the type and concentration of biotechnological retinol to be adjusted to individual skin predispositions.

Combinations with other biotechnological ingredients open up the possibility of creating synergistic complexes with multifaceted anti-aging effects.

Novo-Retin represents the future of retinoids in cosmetics – it combines the proven effectiveness of traditional retinol with the safety and comfort of biotechnological ingredients. We are one of the few brands in the world to use this solution in our new anti-aging series.

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ALGAKTIV® Collage – the biotechnological ingredient of the future ALGAKTIV® Collage is an advanced complex that works on two levels: Mechanism 1 (0–24h): low molecular weight peptides bind water, giving an immediate moisturizing and smoothing effect (plumping effect). Mechanism 2 (24h+): spermidine and collagen amino acids stimulate fibroblasts to produce new collagen, strengthen the dermis and rebuild the skin architecture. That is why this ingredient is included in the new Orientana Microalgae Collagen Lifting Cream . Clinical data – how does plant collagen work? The effectiveness of ALGAKTIV® Collage has been proven in numerous in vivo and in vitro studies. Immediate effects (0–24h) Skin hydration increased by +130% in 1 hour and lasted for 24 hours. The effect of filling fine wrinkles (plumping effect). Skin radiance improved by +30% after 30 minutes. Reduction of wrinkle depth by up to -15% in 1 hour (Primos 3D). 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Its effectiveness has been clinically proven – both in terms of moisturizing and firming the skin. It is created using renewable biotechnology – a planet-friendly process. It fits into the latest trends in biotech beauty and longevity skincare . Plant-based collagen isn't just a fad, but the real future of skincare. Thanks to advanced biotechnology, microalgae are used to create ingredients with documented efficacy that surpass traditional animal and fish collagen in terms of safety, stability, and effectiveness. The new Orientana Lifting Cream with plant collagen is a fusion of nature and science – it works immediately while supporting long-term skin regeneration. It's a solution for those who want to combine an ethical choice with real anti-aging results. 👉 Discover the power of plant collagen from Orientana and discover the future of anti-aging care. Q&A: Plant Collagen 1. What is plant collagen? 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Phytoendorphins in cosmetics – a natural way to activate skin renewal

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No. Phytoendorphins act only locally in the skin , activating receptors present in the epidermis and dermis. They do not enter the bloodstream, do not disrupt the hormonal system, and do not alter the levels of sex hormones in the body. Can phytoendorphins disrupt the menstrual cycle or affect menopause? No. Phytoendorphins used in cosmetics, such as the Orientana serum, act on the skin's surface . They can improve its density, elasticity, and radiance, especially in menopausal women, but they do not affect the menstrual cycle or internal processes. What about complexes like Densorphin™ from ground pepper – don’t they increase hormone levels? Densorphin™ doesn't act like a hormonal medication. Its role is to stimulate the local synthesis of β-endorphins and DHEA in the skin , molecules that are naturally produced there. This effect is limited to the application site and does not affect the entire body. In practice, this means improving skin density and elasticity, not interfering with hormonal balance. Are phytoendorphins safe for men? Yes. Clinical trials of Densorphin™ included both women and men aged 50+. Both groups observed improved skin density, wrinkle reduction, and increased elasticity. Phytoendorphins are not sex hormones, so they do not affect testosterone or estrogen. Can phytoendorphins cause side effects like retinol? No. Phytoendorphins are gentle and don't cause irritation or dryness. Unlike retinol, they don't cause exfoliation; in fact, they strengthen the hydrolipid barrier and improve skin comfort. Can cosmetics with phytoendorphins be used together with hormone therapy (HRT)? Yes, cosmetics with phytoendorphins are safe to use alongside HRT , as their effects are limited to the skin. They can even support the skin during this period, alleviating symptoms of hormonal aging, such as dryness and loss of firmness. 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Fitomucyna - innowacyjny składnik w pielęgnacji skóry. Dlaczego warto po nią sięgnąć?

Phytomucine – an innovative ingredient in skin care. Why is it worth using?

21st-century cosmetology is increasingly turning to biotechnology to create ingredients inspired by nature, yet more stable, safe, and ethical. One such discovery is phytomucine – a biotechnological equivalent of snail slime, extracted from plants. It is most commonly used in the form of aloe phytomucine (Fermentage ALOEVERA) , which has powerful moisturizing, smoothing, and soothing properties. In this article you will learn: what is phytomucine and how does it work, why it can replace the popular but controversial snail slime, what are its effects confirmed by research, and you will learn about the Orientana Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin , which uses this innovation in anti-aging care. 1. What is phytomucin? Phytomucine is a modern active ingredient developed through biotechnology. It is a plant-based alternative to snail slime. It is obtained, among other things, by fermenting aloe vera with lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus) . The fermentation process allows aloe leaves to produce a unique concentrate of active molecules: lactic acid and its salts (lactates) – natural NMF factors responsible for binding water in the skin, potassium (K+) – a key electrolyte supporting proper hydration of the epidermis, bioactive metabolites – supporting skin renewal processes and immunity. Phytomucin works similarly to animal mucin (snail slime) – it smoothes, regenerates and intensively moisturizes – but it is fully vegan, ethical and stable . 2. Phytomucine and traditional snail slime – differences and advantages Snail slime has been known in cosmetology for years as a regenerating and anti-aging ingredient. However, it has several disadvantages: its acquisition raises ethical questions, the composition of mucus is variable and difficult to standardize, products can be unstable and may vary in effectiveness. Aloe phytomucin eliminates these problems: is made from a plant – it is fully vegan , its biotechnological process ensures stability and repeatability of the composition , Research confirms its effectiveness in moisturizing, smoothing and protecting the skin against inflammation. This makes it an ethical and modern alternative to cosmetics with snail slime. 3. Mechanism of action of aloe phytomucine (Fermentage ALOEVERA) a) Providing NMF – natural moisturizing factor Studies have shown that phytomucine delivers lactate (lactic acid) and potassium ions to the skin, which are essential elements of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) . 👉 Effect: the skin becomes better hydrated, soft and elastic . b) Protection against YURAGI skin In Japan, there is a concept called YURAGI skin – meaning “unstable skin” that reacts to environmental factors: temperature fluctuations, pollution, pollen, stress, UV, makeup residue. Over 50% of Japanese women suffer from these problems. Phytomucine from aloe stabilizes the skin, reducing its reactivity and hypersensitivity. c) Anti-inflammatory effect Fermentage ALOEVERA inhibits excessive production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1α, IL-6) in dry skin conditions. 👉 Effect: less irritation, lower risk of dryness and micro-inflammatory damage. 4. Effects confirmed by research Data from in vivo and in vitro studies show that: 67% of people using phytomucine noticed an improvement in skin hydration, After 4 weeks of use , the skin texture improved and became smoother , phytomucine effectively reduces inflammation caused by dryness . These results make it an ingredient that is not only moisturizing, but also neuro-calming , i.e. restoring skin comfort and balance. 5. Serum with phytomucine from Orientana – Neuro-Calm Skin Refining Serum One of the first Polish products using this innovative ingredient is Orientana Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin . Active ingredients: Aloe phytomucine (Fermentage ALOEVERA) – intense hydration, smoothing, reduction of skin reactivity. Lactobionic acid – a delicate polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that supports epidermal renewal, strengthens the hydrolipid barrier and has antioxidant properties. Hyaluronic acid – binds water in the skin, providing long-lasting hydration. Serum action: soothes irritations and inflammation, smoothes the skin structure and improves its texture, restores elasticity and softness, increases the skin's resistance to external factors. Orientana application research results: 100% of people confirmed improvement in skin elasticity, 100% noticed a feeling of relief, 96% of people said their skin became silky smooth. 👉 The serum can be used daily, morning and evening, on cleansed and toned skin. 6. How to use cosmetics with phytomucine? To fully utilize the potential of phytomucine: Cleanse your skin with a gentle gel or foam. Apply a toner – preferably one with moisturizing and soothing properties. Apply a few drops of phytomucin serum to slightly damp skin. Pat in a moisturizing cream or regenerating mask. 💡 Expert advice: Always apply the serum to damp skin – then the phytomucine binds water better and the moisturizing effect is intensified. 7. Why is phytomucine the ingredient of the future? Phytomucine fits into the most important cosmetic trends: biotechnology – modern, safe and stable raw materials, vegan care – an alternative to snail slime, clean beauty – ingredients of natural origin, without unnecessary additives, effectiveness confirmed by research – not just marketing, but real action. It can be expected that in the coming years phytomucine will find wide application not only in serums, but also in creams, masks and cosmetics for sensitive skin care. 8. Summary – who is phytomucine for? Phytomucine is an ingredient recommended for those who want to combine effectiveness with ethics . It is perfect for skincare: dry and dehydrated skin, sensitive and reactive skin, exposed to YURAGI skin , mature skin requiring firming and smoothing, stressed, irritated and dull skin. 👉 If you are looking for a cosmetic with this innovative ingredient, try Orientana – Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin , which combines aloe phytomucin with hyaluronic and lactobionic acid, offering comprehensive anti-aging care. FAQ – most frequently asked questions about phytomucine What is phytomucine and how does it affect the skin? Phytomucine is a plant-based alternative to snail slime, obtained from aloe vera through a fermentation process. It intensely moisturizes, smooths, and soothes the skin. Can phytomucine replace snail slime? Yes – it works very similarly, but it is stable, repeatable, fully vegan and ethical. Which cosmetics with phytomucine are worth choosing? It is best to use a serum – e.g. Orientana Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin , which gives quick and visible results. Is phytomucin serum suitable for sensitive skin? Yes, because phytomucine soothes inflammation, reduces hyperreactivity and supports the hydrolipid barrier. How long do you need to use the serum to see the effects? The first effects (moisturization, soothing) are visible after just a few days, and after 4 weeks, tests confirm improvement in skin texture.

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