Biotechnologia w kosmetykach - rewolucja w pielęgnacji skóry

October 16, 2025

Biotechnology in cosmetics - a revolution in skin care

by Anna Wasilewska - founder of the Orientana brand

Did you know that the collagen in your favorite serum can be derived from bacteria, not dead fish scales? This is just one example of the revolution currently underway in the world of cosmetics. Cosmetic biotechnology is transforming the way skincare products are created, offering not only greater effectiveness but also more ethical and sustainable solutions.

The numbers speak for themselves – the global cosmetic biotechnology market will reach $25.8 billion by 2030, growing at a rate of 7.8% annually. This isn't a coincidence, but a response to the growing demands of conscious consumers who increasingly seek effective , safe , and environmentally friendly products.

Cosmetic biotechnology is the use of living organisms—bacteria, yeast, fungi, or plant cells—to produce active ingredients used in cosmetics. It marks a shift from traditional synthetic chemistry to "living chemistry," where nature becomes a laboratory for creating the most advanced molecules .

Why is biotechnology having such a strong impact on the beauty industry right now? There are several reasons:

Consumer awareness is growing at a rapid pace. Research from 2024 shows that as many as 73% of buyers actively seek out sustainable products, and 68% are willing to pay more for cruelty-free cosmetics. Modern consumers are no longer satisfied with effectiveness alone; they want to know where ingredients come from and how they impact the environment.
Legal regulations are becoming increasingly restrictive. The European Union has banned animal testing for cosmetics since 2013, and other countries are introducing similar regulations. This forces manufacturers to seek alternative methods for testing product safety and effectiveness.
Technological advances have made biotechnology economically viable. Fermentation process costs have fallen by more than 40% over the past decade, and advances in genetic engineering have enabled the precise design of molecules with desired properties.
The trend toward wellness and a holistic approach to health has led consumers to increasingly perceive skincare as part of a broader self-care routine. Biotechnology fits perfectly into this philosophy, offering ingredients that work in tandem with the skin's natural processes.

Cosmetic biotechnology is much more than a fashionable trend—it's a fundamental paradigm shift in the beauty industry. It offers solutions to problems that for years seemed insoluble: how to create cosmetics that are simultaneously effective, safe, ethical, and sustainable.

In this article, I'll introduce you to the fascinating world of cosmetic biotechnology, which is also the world of Orientana. You'll learn about innovations—from basic fermentation processes to the latest advances in plant stem cells. You'll learn which ingredients on your cosmetics labels are derived from biotechnology, the benefits they bring, and how to recognize products utilizing these innovative solutions.

After reading this guide, you'll be able to confidently navigate the world of biotechnological cosmetics, understand their labels, and make choices that align with your values and beauty needs. Prepare for a journey into the future of cosmetics—a future already available on store shelves today.

What is biotechnology in cosmetics?

Cosmetic biotechnology is an interdisciplinary field of science that combines biology, chemistry, and engineering to create cosmetic ingredients using living organisms or their parts. Unlike traditional synthetic chemistry, where molecules are created in the laboratory through chemical reactions, biotechnology uses natural biological processes to produce desired substances.

The key difference between biotechnology and traditional chemistry lies in the source and method of producing active ingredients. Traditional cosmetic chemistry relies on synthesizing molecules from petrochemical or mineral raw materials, often requiring high temperatures, pressures, and aggressive solvents. Biotechnology, on the other hand, mimics and utilizes processes that occur naturally in nature , but under controlled laboratory conditions.

Imagine that instead of building a house from scratch with bricks and concrete, you ask an expert carpenter (in this case, a microorganism) to create perfectly matched wooden elements for you. Biotechnology works similarly— it "programs" microorganisms to produce the exact molecules we need in cosmetics.

The history of cosmetic biotechnology dates back to the 1980s, when the first commercially available hyaluronic acid was produced by bacterial fermentation. This was a breakthrough, as previously this valued ingredient had been obtained exclusively from rooster combs, which was expensive, ethically questionable, and limited availability.

However, the real boom in cosmetic biotechnology came in the 21st century, with the development of genetic engineering and the decline in the cost of fermentation technologies. Today, we can "program" bacteria to produce not only hyaluronic acid but also collagen, peptides, vitamins, and even entirely new molecules that do not occur naturally.

The biotechnological process in cosmetics usually takes place in several stages:

First, scientists identify the desired molecule and analyze its chemical structure.
They then select a suitable host organism (usually bacteria, yeast or plant cells) and "program" it genetically to produce that particular substance.
The organism is then grown in special bioreactors , where it produces the desired ingredient under controlled conditions.
Finally, the ingredient is purified, clarified and prepared for use in cosmetics.

Fascinatingly, biotechnology also allows for the modification of existing molecules to improve their properties. For example, it is possible to create variants of hyaluronic acid with different molecular weights, which influences its depth of penetration into the skin and its mode of action.

Cosmetic biotechnology represents the future of the beauty industry - it combines the best features of nature with the precision of modern science, creating ingredients that are both effective, safe and sustainable.

The most important biotechnological methods in cosmetics

Modern cosmetic biotechnology utilizes three main technologies, each offering unique opportunities and applications in the creation of active ingredients.

Microbiological fermentation

Fermentation is the oldest and most widespread biotechnological method used in cosmetics. This process harnesses the natural abilities of microorganisms—bacteria, yeasts, and fungi—to transform simple nutrients into complex, active molecules.

The fermentation mechanism in cosmetics is similar to the process of making wine or bread, but is much more precisely controlled. Microorganisms are cultivated in sterile bioreactors where ideal conditions prevail – the right temperature, pH, access to oxygen and nutrients. Under these conditions, the microorganisms produce the desired substances as natural byproducts of their metabolism.

The key advantages of fermentation include the ability to mass-produce ingredients at relatively low costs. The process is also highly predictable—once optimized, it can be repeated with identical results. Furthermore, fermentation products are usually very chemically pure, as the microorganisms produce exactly the molecules they were "programmed" to produce.

The most famous example of fermentation in cosmetics is the production of hyaluronic acid by the bacteria Streptococcus zooepidemicus. These safe bacteria naturally produce hyaluronic acid as part of their cell wall, and scientists have learned how to "milk" them of this valuable ingredient.

The result? Hyaluronic acid identical to that found in human skin, but produced in a completely ethical manner.

Another fascinating example is vegan snail mucin—from fermented aloe vera —which has significantly higher bioavailability than its non-vegan counterpart, snail slime. The fermentation process modifies the molecular structure in a way that facilitates its absorption through the skin.

Check:

Biosynthesis of active ingredients

Biosynthesis is an advanced biotechnological technique in which microorganisms (e.g., bacteria, yeast, fungi) are used to produce complex active molecules , often difficult or expensive to obtain from plants traditionally. This works on a similar principle to the production of hyaluronic acid or vitamin B12 by bacterial strains – these organisms are genetically programmed to produce selected components in large quantities and with high purity.

The advantage of biosynthesis is the ability to produce ingredients identical to nature , but without environmental exploitation. This allows for the production of biomimetic peptides, plant-derived collagen, EGF (epidermal growth factor), ceramides, enzymes, and even natural retinoids , among others. This technology is key to the future of anti-aging and regenerative cosmetics, in line with the trends of "skin longevity," cruelty-free, and sustainable beauty .

Examples:

Enzymatic biotechnology

Enzymes are proteins that catalyze biochemical reactions, and in cosmetics, they act as precise "molecular tools." Enzymatic biotechnology uses these natural catalysts to modify cosmetic ingredients, increasing their effectiveness, or creating entirely new properties.

Unlike aggressive chemical processes, enzymatic reactions occur under gentle conditions—at room temperature, at a neutral pH, and without the use of toxic solvents. This makes them an ideal tool for creating gentle cosmetic ingredients.

Enzymes can also modify the properties of existing ingredients. For example, hyaluronidase enzymes can be used to control the breakdown of high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid into smaller fragments that better penetrate the skin. This allows for the creation of products with "multi-level" moisturizing effects.

Of particular interest are enzymes derived from extremophiles—bacteria that thrive in extreme environments, such as hot springs or highly saline lakes. These enzymes remain active under conditions that would destroy normal proteins, making them ideal for use in cosmetics exposed to high temperatures or fluctuating pH.

The most commonly used biotechnological ingredients in cosmetics

The biotechnology cosmetics market today offers a wide range of active ingredients, each derived from different biotechnological processes. Understanding the most important ones will help you make informed product choices and understand their labels.

Biotechnological hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a true star of cosmetic biotechnology and a prime example of how modern science can replace problematic traditional ingredient sources. Just twenty years ago, this prized ingredient was obtained exclusively from rooster combs, which was expensive, ethically questionable, and limited its availability.

Today, biotechnological hyaluronic acid is produced by bacterial fermentation, primarily using strains of Streptococcus zooepidemicus. These safe bacteria naturally produce hyaluronic acid as a component of their cell wall. The production process is extremely precise – bacteria grown in sterile bioreactors "produce" the exact molecule we need.

The key advantages of biotechnological hyaluronic acid include its identity with that naturally found in human skin. The molecule, created through fermentation, is chemically identical to the one our own cells produce, eliminating the risk of allergic reactions or incompatibility.

Moreover, biotechnology allows for precise control of hyaluronic acid's molecular weight. While hyaluronic acid from animal sources has a diverse structure, fermentation can produce molecules of precisely defined sizes. This is crucial because molecular weight determines how hyaluronic acid works:

High molecular weight (1000-1800 kDa) creates an occlusive layer on the skin surface, preventing moisture loss

Medium molecular weight (50-1000 kDa) penetrates into the upper layers of the epidermis, providing long-lasting hydration

Low molecular weight (below 50 kDa) reaches the deeper layers of the skin, stimulating the production of its own collagen and elastin

Its applications in various cosmetic products are incredibly wide. In moisturizing serums and creams, hyaluronic acid provides intense and long-lasting hydration, in anti-aging products it helps fill fine lines, and in sheet masks it creates an intense "flood" of moisture.

Biotechnological collagen

Collagen is the second most important biotechnological ingredient in anti-aging cosmetics after hyaluronic acid. Traditionally obtained from animal skins—primarily cattle, pigs, or fish—currently most often obtained from fish, it can now be produced in a completely vegan and ethical manner.

Biotechnological collagen is produced primarily in two ways: through bacterial fermentation or by culturing yeast cells genetically modified to produce human collagen. The latter method is particularly revolutionary because it allows the creation of collagen identical to that found in human skin.

The greatest advantage of vegan collagen is the elimination of the risk of transmitting animal diseases and allergic reactions to foreign proteins. Animal collagen may contain residues of antibiotics, hormones, and other substances used in animal husbandry. Biotechnological collagen is completely pure and safe.

The production process is fascinating: yeast or bacteria are genetically "reprogrammed" to produce human procollagen, a precursor to collagen. This procollagen is then converted by enzymes into full-value collagen, which can be directly utilized by skin cells.

What's particularly interesting is that biotechnology allows for the production of different types of collagen. Human skin primarily contains type I collagen (responsible for strength) and type III collagen (providing elasticity). Traditionally, it has been very difficult to obtain pure preparations of each type, whereas biotechnology allows for the precise production of each type individually.

The effectiveness of biotechnological collagen in cosmetics is the subject of intense research. Although collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the epidermal barrier, recent studies suggest that biotechnological collagen fragments can stimulate the fibroblasts in the dermis to produce their own collagen.

Orientana cosmetic with biotechnological collagen:

Biotechnological peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as "chemical messages" between skin cells. In cosmetic biotechnology, peptides are designed to deliver specific "instructions" to the skin—for example, to increase collagen production, reduce inflammation, or improve cell renewal.

Types of cosmetic peptides can be divided into several main categories:

Signal peptides are the true "conductors of the cellular orchestra." They mimic the natural signals that young, healthy skin sends to its cells. Matrixyl (palmitoyl-5 pentapeptides) is one of the most famous signaling peptides, which "tells" fibroblasts to increase collagen and elastin production.

Carrier peptides act as "molecular couriers," delivering essential trace elements to skin cells. GHK-Cu (copper peptide) not only transports copper—a key component of collagen synthesis—but also stimulates tissue regeneration and has anti-inflammatory properties.

The mechanism of action of peptides is based on their ability to penetrate the epidermal barrier and reach living skin cells. Unlike large collagen molecules, short peptide chains can squeeze through intercellular spaces and directly influence cell metabolism.

Biotechnological peptide production is primarily performed via solid-phase synthesis, an advanced method that allows for the precise assembly of amino acids into desired sequences. This process ensures high purity and reproducibility of the final product.

The anti-aging effects of biotechnological peptides are clinically proven. Studies show that regular use of peptides can improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Excitingly, new generations of peptides are being designed using artificial intelligence, which analyzes thousands of possible amino acid combinations and predicts their biological activity. This opens the door to creating peptides with previously unattainable efficacy and specificity of action.

An example of such a peptide is Pentapeptide-48 in the RoyalEpigen P5 complex.

Plant mucin (vegan snail slime)

This innovative active ingredient, derived from fermented aloe vera leaf juice , is rich in polysaccharides, amino acids, and peptides . It mimics the effects of snail slime , but is 100% plant-based. During the fermentation process, aloe is processed by specially selected bacterial strains (e.g., Lactobacillus , Leuconostoc ), increasing its bioavailability and bioactivity .

Plant mucin, obtained from fermented aloe, among other sources, has a multi-level effect on the skin. Primarily, it intensively binds and retains water in the epidermis , providing long-lasting hydration, elasticity, and softness. Its polysaccharide structure resembles the skin's natural moisturizing factors (e.g., hyaluronic acid, NMF), making it well-tolerated, even by sensitive or irritated skin. Regular use of mucin-based cosmetics improves the skin's ability to regenerate and strengthens its protective barrier, which is particularly important for dryness, itching, or hyperreactivity.

Additionally, mucin has soothing, smoothing, and protective properties. It creates a thin, invisible film on the skin's surface, protecting it from external factors (e.g., smog, dry air, wind), without causing a feeling of stickiness or heaviness. This makes the skin more supple, more resistant to irritation, and slows down the aging process . Plant-based mucin is a natural alternative to snail slime – consistent with the concept of clean beauty, vegan, and friendly to even the most demanding skin.

Biotechnological retinol

NovoRetin is a groundbreaking, innovative active ingredient with retinoid-like properties that naturally increases the skin's own retinoic acid levels. This provides results similar to retinol, but without its typical side effects, such as irritation and photosensitivity.

The base of NovoRetin™ is mastic – an aromatic resin obtained from the Pistacia lentiscus tree. This raw material is valued for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and nourishing properties.

NovoRetin™'s uniqueness lies in the development of a special delivery system that makes the mastic bioavailable to the skin . This allows for its effective use in skincare products. The technology used in NovoRetin™ allows for a water-soluble form, opening up new possibilities for manufacturers – especially in lightweight serums, gels, and aqueous emulsions.

NovoRetin™ is an innovative alternative to traditional retinol. By naturally supporting the skin's retinoids, it promotes cell renewal, improves skin texture, and provides anti-aging benefits while minimizing the risk of side effects.

Plant ceramides

Yuzu Ceramide B is a modern, natural complex of plant ceramides derived from the Japanese yuzu fruit (Citrus junos) . Developed using advanced biotechnology, it intelligently supports the epidermal barrier , providing skin with protection, elasticity, and a healthy appearance. It is biocompatible with human ceramides , making it exceptionally effective and well-tolerated by all skin types.

The ceramides in Yuzu Ceramide B are derived from the natural lipid fraction of the yuzu fruit skin , grown in Japan. This unique fruit, rich in antioxidants and lipids, is a source of phytoceramides , which structurally resemble ceramides found naturally in human epidermis.

Fractionated extract means that only a specific, desired fraction of ingredients is extracted from the whole plant and then concentrated.
It contains ceramides whose action and structure resemble those of type II and V ceramides naturally found in human skin and hair.

Yuzu Ceramide B:

rebuilds and strengthens the hydrolipid barrier, protecting the skin against water loss (TEWL),
increases the elasticity and softness of the skin, especially dry, sensitive and mature skin,
soothes irritations and reduces skin reactivity to external factors,
prevents premature aging by improving the structure of the stratum corneum,
supports regenerative processes and enhances the action of other active ingredients, such as peptides and retinoids.

High compatibility with the structure of human skin – excellent bioactivity without the risk of irritation.

Advantages of biotechnological cosmetics

Cosmetic biotechnology isn't just a scientific curiosity; it offers concrete, measurable benefits for both consumers and the environment. Understanding these benefits will help you appreciate why biotechnological cosmetics represent the future of the beauty industry.

Safety and gentleness

Biotechnology cosmetics are inherently more compatible with human skin than their synthetic counterparts. This is because the ingredients created through biotechnology processes are often identical or very similar to those naturally occurring in our bodies.

Take biotechnological hyaluronic acid as an example – it is chemically identical to that produced by our own cells. This means the risk of allergic reactions or incompatibility is virtually zero. In contrast, animal-derived hyaluronic acid may contain foreign proteins that can trigger hypersensitivity reactions in some individuals.

The reduced risk of irritation also results from the purity of biotechnological ingredients. Fermentation processes and cell cultures produce substances of very high chemical purity, free from the contaminants that can occur in plant extracts or animal-derived ingredients.

Biotechnological peptides are particularly gentle on the skin because they mimic natural intercellular signals. They therefore work in harmony with the skin's natural processes without forcing it to act in an unnatural way.

Efficacy and biocompatibility

The higher biocompatibility of biotechnological ingredients translates directly into their greater effectiveness. The skin "recognizes" these molecules as "its own" and can better utilize them in its metabolic processes.

Control over molecular structure is another key advantage. Biotechnology allows for the precise "design" of active ingredients with optimal properties. For example, hyaluronic acid can be produced with different molecular weights, each with a different action profile, and combined in a single product for maximum effect.

Standardization of active ingredients means that each batch of a biotechnological product contains exactly the same concentration of active ingredients. In the case of plant extracts, the content of active substances can vary depending on growing conditions, season, and extraction method.

Synergy is easier to achieve with biotechnological components because their properties are precisely known and controlled. Formulators can create complex ingredient systems that mutually reinforce each other's effects.

Sustainable development and environmental protection

Reducing environmental impact is one of the key advantages of cosmetic biotechnology. Traditionally, growing plants for cosmetic ingredients requires vast amounts of water, pesticides, and fertilizers, and also consumes valuable agricultural land.

Cell cultures require 99% less water than traditional plant cultivation for the same active ingredients. Bacterial fermentation can take place in closed systems that do not emit pollutants into the environment.

Protecting endangered plant species is particularly important. Many valuable plants used in cosmetics are threatened with extinction due to overexploitation. Biotechnology allows us to obtain their active ingredients without destroying natural populations.

Reduction of transport and logistics - biotechnology ingredients can be produced locally, close to cosmetics factories, which reduces the carbon footprint associated with transporting raw materials from distant regions of the world.

Eliminating seasonality means constant availability of active ingredients regardless of weather conditions or growing seasons, which increases the stability of supply chains.

Ethical aspects

Alternatives to animal-derived ingredients are a fundamental ethical advantage of cosmetic biotechnology. Collagen, hyaluronic acid, lanolin, and many other traditionally animal-derived ingredients can now be produced completely vegan.

The ability to create new molecules is an exciting prospect for cosmetic biotechnology. Scientists can design active ingredients that don't exist in nature but are specifically tailored to address specific skin concerns.

Personalizing cosmetics is becoming a reality thanks to biotechnology. In the future, we will be able to produce active ingredients tailored to the individual genetic and metabolic needs of specific users.

Multifunctionality of ingredients - biotechnology allows the creation of molecules with several different mechanisms of action simultaneously, which simplifies formulation and increases the effectiveness of final products.

These numerous advantages make cosmetic biotechnology not just a trend, but a fundamental shift in the way we think about creating cosmetics – a shift that prioritizes user safety, effectiveness, and ecological responsibility.

Challenges and limitations of cosmetic biotechnology

Despite its undeniable advantages, cosmetic biotechnology also faces a number of challenges that affect the pace of its development and the availability of end products to consumers.

High production costs

Investments in biotechnology infrastructure are enormous. Building a modern fermentation facility can cost tens of millions of dollars, and plant cell culture laboratories require specialized, expensive equipment. These capital expenditures must then be amortized in the prices of the final products.

The research and development process is lengthy and capital-intensive. From the moment a potential active ingredient is identified to its commercial launch, it can take 5-7 years of intensive research. During this time, teams of scientists, biotechnologists, and process engineers work to optimize production, generating significant costs.

Scale of production affects economics. While small quantities of biotechnological components can be produced in laboratories, scaling up to industrial scale often encounters technological challenges. Increasing the volume of bioreactors isn't always straightforward—processes that perform perfectly at a 10-liter scale may not function well in 10,000-liter reactors.

Quality control costs are higher than for traditional chemical ingredients. Every batch of a biotechnology product must be tested for purity, biological activity, endotoxins, and microbial contamination.

The complexity of technological processes

Biotechnology requires interdisciplinary knowledge combining biology, chemistry, process engineering, and information technology. Finding specialists with such broad competencies is difficult, and hiring them is expensive.

Controlling biological processes is more complex than chemical reactions. Living organisms respond to the slightest changes in environmental conditions—temperature, pH, oxygen concentration, or nutrient levels. Small variations can drastically affect production efficiency.

Scalability issues are particularly prevalent in plant cell cultures. While bacteria and yeasts can be grown relatively easily in large quantities, plant cells are more finicky and often require specialized conditions that are difficult to achieve on an industrial scale.

The stability of biotechnological products can be problematic. Proteins and peptides are sensitive to temperature, pH, and the action of proteolytic enzymes. This requires the development of specialized stabilization and protection systems, further complicating the formulation process .

Consumer education

Consumers ' lack of familiarity with cosmetic biotechnology can lead to misunderstandings and resistance. Many people associate biotechnology solely with GMOs in food, failing to understand its cosmetic applications.

"Chemophobia" can paradoxically be detrimental to biotechnological ingredients. Some consumers may perceive them as "artificial" or "unnatural," failing to understand that they are often identical to naturally occurring substances.

The need to educate consumers about the benefits requires significant investments in marketing and communications. Brands must spend significant resources educating consumers about the benefits of biotechnology, which increases the cost of bringing products to market.

Skepticism toward new technologies is a natural reaction among some consumers. It takes time for new biotechnology solutions to gain widespread trust and acceptance.

Despite these challenges, technological advances are systematically eliminating them. Production costs are falling with increased scale and process optimization, regulations are becoming more specific, and consumer awareness is growing. Cosmetic biotechnology is well on its way to becoming a standard in the beauty industry.

Not just new ingredients or processes—this is a fundamental shift in how we think about cosmetics. We will move from mass-produced products to personalized solutions, from static ingredients to dynamic systems that respond to skin needs in real time. This is a fascinating prospect that will soon become a reality.

Summary: Cosmetic Biotechnology - an investment in the future

Cosmetic biotechnology is much more than just another trend in the beauty industry—it's a fundamental revolution that's redefining how skincare products are created, used, and thought about. After analyzing all aspects of this fascinating field, from basic fermentation processes to the latest ingredients like Novo-Retin and Yuzu Ceramide B, we can draw several key conclusions.

The most important benefits in a nutshell

The safety and compatibility of biotechnological ingredients with human skin are unparalleled. Nature-identical molecules virtually eliminate the risk of allergic reactions, while precise control of manufacturing processes guarantees high purity and quality of the final products. Novo-Retin demonstrates this perfectly – it offers the effectiveness of retinol without its traditional side effects.

The effectiveness of biotechnological active ingredients surpasses traditional alternatives thanks to improved biocompatibility and the ability to precisely "design" molecules with optimal properties. Yuzu Ceramide B, with its 127% improvement in hydration, and signaling peptides that stimulate collagen production are examples of ingredients impossible to obtain using traditional methods.

Sustainability is a natural consequence of biotechnology. Reducing water consumption by 99%, eliminating the need for pesticide-treated crops, protecting endangered plant species, and enabling local production of ingredients are environmental benefits that cannot be ignored in times of climate crisis.

The ethical dimension of cosmetic biotechnology responds to growing consumer expectations. Vegan alternatives to animal ingredients, the elimination of animal testing, and fair working conditions are values that are increasingly important to conscious buyers.

Industry development prospects

Cosmetic biotechnology will become the norm , not the exception. Forecasts predict the market will grow to $35 billion by 2035, meaning biotechnological ingredients will become increasingly common and accessible. New ingredients like Novo-Retin and Yuzu Ceramide B are just the beginning—laboratories are already developing new generations of even more advanced molecules.

Personalization and AI will shape the future of cosmetics. Soon, we'll be able to order products tailored to our skin genome, and algorithms will design active ingredients perfectly tailored to our individual needs. Imagine a personalized Novo-Retin tailored to your genetic sensitivity to retinol.

Sustainability will no longer be an added value, but a fundamental requirement. Consumers will increasingly choose environmentally responsible brands, and biotechnology offers the best tools for creating such products.

A revolution that has already begun

Cosmetic biotechnology is a bridge that combines the best of nature with the precision of modern science. It doesn't replace nature—it collaborates with it, leveraging its processes to create ingredients impossible to obtain through traditional methods. Novo-Retin mimics and enhances the effects of retinol, Yuzu Ceramide B utilizes Japanese wisdom about the properties of yuzu, and the peptide "speaks" to the skin in its own molecular language.

It's a revolution that's already begun. Hyaluronic acid in your serum, peptides in your anti-aging cream, ceramides in your body lotion, and maybe even Novo-Retin in your night cream or Yuzu Ceramide B in your regenerating concentrate – biotechnology is already part of our daily skincare routine.

The future of cosmetics is biotechnological – safe, effective, ethical, and sustainable. By investing in biotechnological products, you not only care for the health and beauty of your skin but also support the development of technologies that can positively change the entire world of beauty.

Fitoendorfiny w kosmetyce? To naturalny sposób na aktywację odnowy skóry

October 16, 2025

Phytoendorphins in cosmetics – a natural way to activate skin renewal

Why are we looking for new ways to renew our skin? Skin aging is a multifactorial process – it results from the passage of time, oxidative stress, collagen loss, and also hormonal changes. With age, fibroblast activity declines, and levels of estrogen, androgens, and DHEA drop, as do levels of β-endorphins – molecules known as "happiness hormones." These endorphins are responsible not only for our well-being but also for skin regeneration and healthy metabolism . It's no wonder cosmetology is searching for ways to restore skin's biochemical balance and activate its natural renewal mechanisms. The answer lies in phytoendorphins – modern plant ingredients that act like endorphins, improving the condition and appearance of the skin. What are phytoendorphins? Phytoendorphins are plant compounds that mimic the effects of endorphins – natural neurotransmitters present in our bodies. Endorphins are responsible for well-being, but also for skin health: accelerate regeneration, support wound healing, stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, improve microcirculation and cellular metabolism. Phytoendorphins work in a very similar way – they activate opioid receptors in the skin, which translates into its renewal and younger appearance. How do phytoendorphins work in cosmetics? The inclusion of phytoendorphins in cosmetics provides a wide range of effects: Reduction of cellular stress – lowering cortisol levels in the skin. Improved elasticity and firmness – stimulation of fibroblasts. “Anti-stress” effect – the skin looks radiant, fresh and young. Strengthening the protective barrier – better resistance to external factors. Faster regeneration – acceleration of keratinocyte proliferation and epidermal renewal. That is why phytoendorphins are called the neurocosmetic ingredients of the future – they act not only physiologically, but also emotionally on the skin. Endorphins from ground pepper – the power of the Densorphin™ complex The most important source of phytoendorphins in Orientana serum is Densorphin™ – a concentrated extract from the fruit of the pepper plant (Vitex agnus-castus). This 100% natural ingredient, approved by COSMOS, works in two ways: Stimulates the biosynthesis of β-endorphins – natural neurotransmitters responsible for the regeneration, elasticity and smoothness of the skin. Activates the production of DHEA (dehydroepiandrosterone) – a precursor of sex hormones (estrogens and androgens), which affects skin density. Thanks to this, Densorphin™ is able to thicken mature skin, improve its elasticity and visibly reduce wrinkles – in both women and men. Densorphin™ Research Results The effectiveness of Densorphin™ has been confirmed in in vitro and clinical studies: Increased skin density after just 1 month of use. Visibly reduced wrinkles and improved skin elasticity. The “skin cushion” effect – restoration of volume lost during the aging process. Studies on women and men 50+ have shown that Densorphin™ effectively counteracts the loss of density and elasticity associated with menopause and andropause. Red clover – support for mature skin A key ingredient in Orientana serum is red clover extract , rich in phytoestrogens. These compounds mimic the effects of estrogen, which declines rapidly with age (especially during menopause). Effects of red clover: improvement of skin density, increased hydration, reduction of symptoms of hormonal aging, protection against loss of elasticity. Thanks to the synergy of phytoestrogens and phytoendorphins, the skin receives comprehensive support during menopause and after the age of 50 . Lactic acid – gentle peeling and hydration The second key ingredient in Orientana serum is lactic acid (AHA) . This is an extremely gentle acid that simultaneously exfoliates and moisturizes the skin. gently removes dead skin cells, smoothes the skin surface, improves the absorption of active ingredients, has a moisturizing effect thanks to the presence of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) . Combined with phytoendorphins and red clover, lactic acid has a regenerating, brightening and smoothing effect on the skin . Orientana Skin Renewal Activating Serum Orientana was one of the first brands in Poland to use Densorphin™ in its innovative product: Skin Renewal Activating Serum . Key ingredients of the serum: Phytoendorphins from ground pepper (Densorphin™) – activate regeneration and improve elasticity. Red clover – a source of phytoestrogens that support mature skin. Lactic acid – gentle exfoliation and hydration. Effects confirmed by application tests: 100% of respondents noticed smoother skin, 100% confirmed the effect of renewal and regeneration, 100% confirmed silky soft skin. The serum is in line with the Orientana philosophy: natural ingredients + biotechnology = effectiveness and safety . Who are cosmetics with phytoendorphins for? Cosmetics with phytoendorphins are a solution for people who want to: reduce signs of fatigue and stress on the skin, improve its density and elasticity, strengthen the hydrolipid barrier, counteract hormonal aging (menopause, andropause), achieve the effect of fresh, radiant, regenerated skin. Phytoendorphins in cosmetics are one of the newest and most promising anti-aging trends. They help skin regain its radiance, firmness, and self-regenerative capacity. The Densorphin™ complex from ground pepper is particularly effective as it stimulates the synthesis of β-endorphins and DHEA, increasing skin density and elasticity and reducing wrinkles. Orientana, a pioneer in combining nature and biotechnology, has created the Skin Renewal Activating Serum , which harnesses the power of phytoendorphins, phytoestrogens, and AHA acids. This cosmetic addresses the needs of skin in need of regeneration and supports its natural renewal at the cellular level. 👉 Check out Orientana Skin Renewal Activating Serum and discover how phytoendorphins can transform your skincare routine. Phytoendorphins and Hormones: Frequently Asked Questions and Concerns Are phytoendorphins hormones? No. Phytoendorphins are plant compounds that act similarly to endorphins—natural neurotransmitters in our bodies. They are not hormones in the strict sense, but rather signaling substances that support cell communication in the skin and stimulate regenerative processes. Does the use of phytoendorphins in cosmetics affect the hormonal balance of the entire body? No. Phytoendorphins act only locally in the skin , activating receptors present in the epidermis and dermis. They do not enter the bloodstream, do not disrupt the hormonal system, and do not alter the levels of sex hormones in the body. Can phytoendorphins disrupt the menstrual cycle or affect menopause? No. Phytoendorphins used in cosmetics, such as the Orientana serum, act on the skin's surface . They can improve its density, elasticity, and radiance, especially in menopausal women, but they do not affect the menstrual cycle or internal processes. What about complexes like Densorphin™ from ground pepper – don’t they increase hormone levels? Densorphin™ doesn't act like a hormonal medication. Its role is to stimulate the local synthesis of β-endorphins and DHEA in the skin , molecules that are naturally produced there. This effect is limited to the application site and does not affect the entire body. In practice, this means improving skin density and elasticity, not interfering with hormonal balance. Are phytoendorphins safe for men? Yes. Clinical trials of Densorphin™ included both women and men aged 50+. Both groups observed improved skin density, wrinkle reduction, and increased elasticity. Phytoendorphins are not sex hormones, so they do not affect testosterone or estrogen. Can phytoendorphins cause side effects like retinol? No. Phytoendorphins are gentle and don't cause irritation or dryness. Unlike retinol, they don't cause exfoliation; in fact, they strengthen the hydrolipid barrier and improve skin comfort. Can cosmetics with phytoendorphins be used together with hormone therapy (HRT)? Yes, cosmetics with phytoendorphins are safe to use alongside HRT , as their effects are limited to the skin. They can even support the skin during this period, alleviating symptoms of hormonal aging, such as dryness and loss of firmness. Are phytoendorphins in cosmetics regulated and tested? Yes. Complexes like Densorphin™ are COSMOS-approved and have in vitro and in vivo studies. They have been proven to increase skin density, improve elasticity, and reduce wrinkles—without affecting systemic hormones.

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Bioretinol - biotechnologiczna przyszłość anti-aging

October 16, 2025

Bioretinol - the biotechnological future of anti-aging

Retinol is the undisputed king of anti-aging ingredients , but its traditional form brings with it a number of problems: irritation, photosensitivity, instability and limited skin tolerance. Biotechnology offers a revolutionary solution to these problems in the form of Novo-Retin - a new generation of biotechnological retinol, also called bioretinol or phytoretinol . x Why did Orientana use bioretinol in its anti-wrinkle eye cream? Less risk of irritation and peeling Retinol often causes irritation—redness, flaking, and dry skin, especially on the thin skin around the eyes. NovoRetin™ is described as gentler: it doesn't strip the skin's natural barrier, increases moisture, and doesn't cause as much dryness. Stable and can also be used during the day / in brighter conditions Retinol is sensitive to light and oxidation – it's often used only in the evening and requires careful protection (e.g., good packaging, UV filter). NovoRetin™ offers greater stability: it's described as an ingredient that doesn't degrade as easily in light, which can provide greater flexibility in use. cosmeticsbusiness.com Anti-aging and firming effects In clinical studies, 28 days of using 2% NovoRetin™ resulted in increased skin elasticity and density, as well as reduced wrinkles and pores. The anti-wrinkle effect was confirmed in application studies of Orientana Eye Cream – it reduced the appearance of wrinkles, reduced wrinkle length, and reduced wrinkle depth. Moisturizing effects Unlike retinol, which often dehydrates the skin (especially at the beginning of use), NovoRetin™—according to manufacturers and product descriptions—improves skin's moisture retention. This is especially important under the eyes, where thin tissue loses moisture more easily. Studies of Orientana's eye cream with phytoretinol have shown that the cream immediately improves skin hydration. Less photosensitivity Retinoids (including retinol) can increase skin's sensitivity to UV radiation, necessitating the use of sunscreen. NovoRetin™ is promoted as a photosensitizing ingredient—which may mean it's safer to use in the morning or when exposed to light. Multidirectional action In addition to its anti-aging properties, NovoRetin™ also addresses pores, excessive shine, imperfections, and discoloration. Therefore, it may be better as a component of a comprehensive eye care regimen, not just as a wrinkle-reducing ingredient. What is Bioretinol NovoRetin™? NovoRetin™ is an innovative raw ingredient - bioretinol, which increases the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin, leading to an effect similar to retinol . Bioretinol creation process: Raw material basis : Mastic is used - an aromatic resin produced by the lentisk tree (Pistacia lentiscus), which has been valued for its therapeutic and care properties since ancient times. Innovative bioavailability system : A unique skin delivery system has been developed that makes bioretinol bioavailable to the skin. Water-soluble process : Thanks to the technology used, a water-soluble product is created, which eliminates previous problems with the formulation of cosmetics containing mastic. The end result : NovoRetin™ is easy to formulate and offers an innovative alternative to retinol in skincare formulations because it enhances the levels of naturally occurring retinoids in the skin. The mechanism of action of bioretinol Novo-Retin works on the same receptors as traditional retinol (RAR and RXR receptors), but in a much more gentle and controlled manner. Instead of bombarding the skin with high concentrations of the active ingredient, biotechnological retinol is released gradually, allowing the skin to adapt to its effects. The key difference lies in the activation method. Traditional retinol must be converted by skin enzymes into its active form, retinoic acid. This conversion process often leads to irritation and unpredictable reactions. Novo-Retin already contains precursors that are gently released and activated in response to the skin's needs. Actions at the cellular level include: Stimulation of cell renewal - accelerating the natural process of exfoliation of the epidermis Increasing collagen production - activation of fibroblasts in the dermis Regulation of sebum production - normalization of the function of the sebaceous glands Antioxidant effect - protection against free radicals Advantages of bioretinol used in Orientana eye cream compared to traditional retinol Elimination of retinoid dermatitis This is the greatest advantage of biotechnological retinol. Novo-Retin does not cause the characteristic "retinol burn"—redness, peeling, and irritation that often accompany the use of traditional retinoids. No photosensitivity This means Novo-Retin can also be used during the day, unlike traditional retinol, which increases skin's sensitivity to UV radiation. This revolutionary change makes it much easier to incorporate retinol into your daily skincare routine. Stability in the formula Here's another key advantage: Traditional retinol is extremely unstable—it degrades when exposed to light, air, and heat. Novo-Retin retains its activity for a much longer period of time, which translates into greater effectiveness of the final products. Compatibility with other ingredients Compatibility with other ingredients is significantly improved. Novo-Retin can be safely combined with vitamin C and AHA/BHA acids – combinations that could be problematic with traditional retinol. Safety during pregnancy This is an added advantage - although you should always consult your doctor, Novo-Retin does not exhibit the developmental toxicity characteristic of high doses of retinoids. Clinical studies and the effectiveness of bioretinol A comparative study of Novo-Retin vs. retinol 0.5% conducted on a group of 120 people for 12 weeks showed: Wrinkle reduction : Novo-Retin 28% vs. retinol 25% Improved elasticity : Novo-Retin 31% vs. retinol 24% Reduction of discoloration : Novo-Retin 34% vs. retinol 29% Skin irritations : Novo-Retin 5% vs. retinol 47% Long-term safety studies covering 6 months of use showed no adverse side effects, while the group using traditional retinol reported 23% of cases of persistent irritation. The studies on sensitive skin are particularly impressive – 89% of people with sensitive skin tolerated Novo-Retin without any negative reactions, while only 12% could use traditional retinol. * manufacturer's tests The Future of Biotechnological Retinoids New generations of bio-retinols are already in the research phase. Scientists are developing molecules that will be even more selective in their action, activating only those receptors responsible for positive anti-aging effects, without affecting those that cause irritation. Personalization of bio-retinols based on genetic analysis will allow the type and concentration of biotechnological retinol to be adjusted to individual skin predispositions. Combinations with other biotechnological ingredients open up the possibility of creating synergistic complexes with multifaceted anti-aging effects. Novo-Retin represents the future of retinoids in cosmetics – it combines the proven effectiveness of traditional retinol with the safety and comfort of biotechnological ingredients. We are one of the few brands in the world to use this solution in our new anti-aging series.

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Fitomucyna - innowacyjny składnik w pielęgnacji skóry. Dlaczego warto po nią sięgnąć?

October 16, 2025

Phytomucine – an innovative ingredient in skin care. Why is it worth using?

21st-century cosmetology is increasingly turning to biotechnology to create ingredients inspired by nature, yet more stable, safe, and ethical. One such discovery is phytomucine – a biotechnological equivalent of snail slime, extracted from plants. It is most commonly used in the form of aloe phytomucine (Fermentage ALOEVERA) , which has powerful moisturizing, smoothing, and soothing properties. In this article you will learn: what is phytomucine and how does it work, why it can replace the popular but controversial snail slime, what are its effects confirmed by research, and you will learn about the Orientana Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin , which uses this innovation in anti-aging care. 1. What is phytomucin? Phytomucine is a modern active ingredient developed through biotechnology. It is a plant-based alternative to snail slime. It is obtained, among other things, by fermenting aloe vera with lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus) . The fermentation process allows aloe leaves to produce a unique concentrate of active molecules: lactic acid and its salts (lactates) – natural NMF factors responsible for binding water in the skin, potassium (K+) – a key electrolyte supporting proper hydration of the epidermis, bioactive metabolites – supporting skin renewal processes and immunity. Phytomucin works similarly to animal mucin (snail slime) – it smoothes, regenerates and intensively moisturizes – but it is fully vegan, ethical and stable . 2. Phytomucine and traditional snail slime – differences and advantages Snail slime has been known in cosmetology for years as a regenerating and anti-aging ingredient. However, it has several disadvantages: its acquisition raises ethical questions, the composition of mucus is variable and difficult to standardize, products can be unstable and may vary in effectiveness. Aloe phytomucin eliminates these problems: is made from a plant – it is fully vegan , its biotechnological process ensures stability and repeatability of the composition , Research confirms its effectiveness in moisturizing, smoothing and protecting the skin against inflammation. This makes it an ethical and modern alternative to cosmetics with snail slime. 3. Mechanism of action of aloe phytomucine (Fermentage ALOEVERA) a) Providing NMF – natural moisturizing factor Studies have shown that phytomucine delivers lactate (lactic acid) and potassium ions to the skin, which are essential elements of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) . 👉 Effect: the skin becomes better hydrated, soft and elastic . b) Protection against YURAGI skin In Japan, there is a concept called YURAGI skin – meaning “unstable skin” that reacts to environmental factors: temperature fluctuations, pollution, pollen, stress, UV, makeup residue. Over 50% of Japanese women suffer from these problems. Phytomucine from aloe stabilizes the skin, reducing its reactivity and hypersensitivity. c) Anti-inflammatory effect Fermentage ALOEVERA inhibits excessive production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1α, IL-6) in dry skin conditions. 👉 Effect: less irritation, lower risk of dryness and micro-inflammatory damage. 4. Effects confirmed by research Data from in vivo and in vitro studies show that: 67% of people using phytomucine noticed an improvement in skin hydration, After 4 weeks of use , the skin texture improved and became smoother , phytomucine effectively reduces inflammation caused by dryness . These results make it an ingredient that is not only moisturizing, but also neuro-calming , i.e. restoring skin comfort and balance. 5. Serum with phytomucine from Orientana – Neuro-Calm Skin Refining Serum One of the first Polish products using this innovative ingredient is Orientana Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin . Active ingredients: Aloe phytomucine (Fermentage ALOEVERA) – intense hydration, smoothing, reduction of skin reactivity. Lactobionic acid – a delicate polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that supports epidermal renewal, strengthens the hydrolipid barrier and has antioxidant properties. Hyaluronic acid – binds water in the skin, providing long-lasting hydration. Serum action: soothes irritations and inflammation, smoothes the skin structure and improves its texture, restores elasticity and softness, increases the skin's resistance to external factors. Orientana application research results: 100% of people confirmed improvement in skin elasticity, 100% noticed a feeling of relief, 96% of people said their skin became silky smooth. 👉 The serum can be used daily, morning and evening, on cleansed and toned skin. 6. How to use cosmetics with phytomucine? To fully utilize the potential of phytomucine: Cleanse your skin with a gentle gel or foam. Apply a toner – preferably one with moisturizing and soothing properties. Apply a few drops of phytomucin serum to slightly damp skin. Pat in a moisturizing cream or regenerating mask. 💡 Expert advice: Always apply the serum to damp skin – then the phytomucine binds water better and the moisturizing effect is intensified. 7. Why is phytomucine the ingredient of the future? Phytomucine fits into the most important cosmetic trends: biotechnology – modern, safe and stable raw materials, vegan care – an alternative to snail slime, clean beauty – ingredients of natural origin, without unnecessary additives, effectiveness confirmed by research – not just marketing, but real action. It can be expected that in the coming years phytomucine will find wide application not only in serums, but also in creams, masks and cosmetics for sensitive skin care. 8. Summary – who is phytomucine for? Phytomucine is an ingredient recommended for those who want to combine effectiveness with ethics . It is perfect for skincare: dry and dehydrated skin, sensitive and reactive skin, exposed to YURAGI skin , mature skin requiring firming and smoothing, stressed, irritated and dull skin. 👉 If you are looking for a cosmetic with this innovative ingredient, try Orientana – Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin , which combines aloe phytomucin with hyaluronic and lactobionic acid, offering comprehensive anti-aging care. FAQ – most frequently asked questions about phytomucine What is phytomucine and how does it affect the skin? Phytomucine is a plant-based alternative to snail slime, obtained from aloe vera through a fermentation process. It intensely moisturizes, smooths, and soothes the skin. Can phytomucine replace snail slime? Yes – it works very similarly, but it is stable, repeatable, fully vegan and ethical. Which cosmetics with phytomucine are worth choosing? It is best to use a serum – e.g. Orientana Soothing and Smoothing Serum with Aloe Mucin , which gives quick and visible results. Is phytomucin serum suitable for sensitive skin? Yes, because phytomucine soothes inflammation, reduces hyperreactivity and supports the hydrolipid barrier. How long do you need to use the serum to see the effects? The first effects (moisturization, soothing) are visible after just a few days, and after 4 weeks, tests confirm improvement in skin texture.

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Biotechnology in cosmetics - a revolution in skin care

What is biotechnology in cosmetics?