We used exosomes - Do you know them?

In recent years, cosmetology and aesthetic medicine have increasingly reached for solutions inspired by biological mechanisms of body regeneration. We see that the number of treatments with the latest discoveries confirmed by scientific clinical studies is growing.

One of the newest and most promising discoveries in this field are exosomes – microscopic extracellular vesicles that play a key role in skin cell communication. Exosomes are naturally produced during cellular processes and are secreted by various cell types, including stem cells, fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Their main task is to transport signaling substances – such as proteins, peptides, RNA and lipids – that regulate skin regeneration, skin healing and skin barrier reconstruction.

The interest in regenerative therapies in cosmetology is systematically growing. We are increasingly looking for cosmetics and treatments that not only mask the signs of aging, but actually improve the condition of the skin at the cellular level. These modern intercellular communication systems fit perfectly into this trend as a component with a strong repair and anti-inflammatory effect, which supports the natural mechanisms of the cells of the dermis. Thanks to the ability to transfer information between cells, exosomes open a new chapter in regenerative cosmetology.

What are exosomes?

These are nano-vesicular structures of cellular origin that act as information transmitters between cells. They are tiny, lipid-membrane-enclosed vesicles with a diameter of 30–150 nanometers that are naturally secreted by various types of cells. They are formed inside the cell in so-called multivesicular bodies and then released into the extracellular space.

Their primary task is to transport bioactive molecules – such as proteins, lipids, microRNA, growth factors and enzymes – to other cells, thereby initiating and regulating various biological processes, including the acceleration of skin regeneration , immune response and the course of inflammation.

They can be obtained from different types of cells, which affects their biological properties and application. In cosmetology and aesthetic medicine, exosomes derived from mesenchymal stem cells (MSC) are most often used, because they contain a particularly rich set of regenerative and anti-inflammatory factors.

Other sources of exosomes include keratinocytes (cells of the epidermis), fibroblasts (cells responsible for the production of collagen and elastin) and immune cells. The type of cell from which these biological signalling vesicles come determines their function – some are more effective in accelerating skin regeneration, others have better anti-inflammatory or immunomodulatory properties, and still others are used to improve skin tone and rejuvenate the skin.

Although they are often compared to other active ingredients, such as peptides or cytokines, they differ fundamentally. While these substances act individually and locally, biological signaling nanovesicles are complex “delivery systems” for multiple biological signals simultaneously.

Scientific clinical studies have shown that they are able to deliver their charges to the interior of cells in a targeted manner, which significantly increases their effectiveness. Thanks to the lipid coating, their content does not degrade in contact with the environment, and their microscopic size allows them to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. In other words, they not only deliver active ingredients, but also "teach" cells how to behave - for example, how to start skin cell renewal, calm inflammation or initiate collagen production. These are wonderful ingredients that work effectively on skin aging.

Serum with exosomes from Orientana

One of the best Orientana cosmetics is the modern Serum with exosomes. Hydro-Moisturizing Serum for facial skin. Exosomes used in this cosmetic come from Calendula Officinalis Meristem Cell Culture stem cells,

Biological signal nanobubbles used in the serum act at the cellular level, which is why visible wrinkle reduction is observed. They stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, restoring skin firmness and improving skin tension. Additionally, they contribute to increasing skin thickness, which improves its structure and resistance to external factors. By strengthening the hydrolipid barrier, thanks to the reinforcement with snow mushroom extract (tremella), they provide intensive skin hydration, and their brightening properties make the skin more uniform, which is manifested by smoothing and soothing existing discolorations. The effect is a healthier, younger and more radiant appearance of the skin.

The serum not only effectively supports regenerative processes and improves the appearance of the skin, but is especially appreciated by skin prone to breakouts and shine. After use, there is an immediate improvement in color, the complexion is full of radiance, and the skin is less oily.

Exosomes in Serum - InnovaStemCell Calendula®

Exosomes obtained from InnovaStemCell Calendula® W significantly improve the appearance, structure and condition of the skin. This ingredient reduces wrinkles, intensively moisturizes, smoothes, brightens and evens out the skin tone. Additionally, it has a soothing and anti-aging effect, and the effects are visible after 2-4 weeks of regular use.

InnovaStemCell Calendula® Studies Have Shown:

• Wrinkle reduction:
  After 28 days of using the cream with 4% InnovaStemCell Calendula® W, wrinkle depth decreased by an average of 38.3% , while in the placebo group only by 6.25%.
• Intensive hydration:
  A preparation with 4% of this ingredient improved the skin's moisture level by as much as 74.17% after 28 days, and after just 14 days the increase in moisture was over 42%.
• Increasing skin thickness and elasticity:
  Visible "filling" and thickening of the skin - after 4 weeks, skin thickness increased by an average of 58.3% and elasticity by 23.3% .
• Smoothing and brightening the complexion:
  Skin became smoother ( 59% increase) and brighter and more radiant ( 25.8% increase in skin brightness after 28 days).
• Reduction of discoloration:
  Participants noticed a significant reduction in discoloration and acne scars ( 33.3% reduction in pigmentation).
• Color evenness:
  Skin tone evenness improved by 54.2% after one month of use.
• High tolerance and safety:
  Studies have shown no side effects or irritations even at higher concentrations of the ingredient.

Exosomes in aesthetic medicine

Biological signal vesicles in aesthetic treatments are an innovative technology that revolutionizes the approach to tissue regeneration. These microscopic extracellular vesicles (30–150 nm in size), naturally secreted by cells, especially stem cells with the main task of transmitting biological signals, contain growth factors, RNA, peptides, enzymes and lipids that support intercellular communication. Thanks to this, they are able to activate skin regeneration processes without the need for direct administration of cells.

Exosome treatments are becoming increasingly popular in professional medical cosmetology clinics. They are most often combined with technologies that disrupt the epidermal barrier, such as microneedling (e.g. dermapen), fractional laser or microneedle radiofrequency. Exosome treatments using this technique make them reach deeper layers of the skin faster, where they stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, improving firmness, elasticity and the overall condition of the skin. They also have strong anti-inflammatory properties, which shortens the recovery time and reduces the risk of complications after invasive procedures.

In aesthetic medicine, exosomes are used not only in anti-aging therapies. They are also successfully used in reducing acne scars, discolorations, treating atopic dermatitis, sun damage or in therapies for sensitive and reactive skin. Biological signal vesicles also support the treatment of androgenetic and telogen effluvium by stimulating hair growth and improving microcirculation of the scalp. Their action is not only based on a temporary aesthetic effect, but on deep, biological tissue regeneration.

ASCE Exosomes

In aesthetic treatments, the ASCE™ exosome treatment has gained great popularity. ASCE exosomes (Advanced Stem Cell Exosome) are an advanced form of cell-derived exosomes, most often obtained from mesenchymal stem cells (MSC), and are designed to maximize regenerative and anti-aging effects.

ASCE exosomes are produced in controlled laboratory conditions using strict protocols, ensuring their high purity, safety and repeatability. They are free of DNA, cell nucleus and contaminants, which distinguishes them from some other biological preparations.

They contain over 200 types of proteins, peptides, cytokines, growth factors, lipids and RNA, and are most often used in the treatment of aging skin, with discolorations, to eliminate acne scars, to stimulate hair growth or as preparations supporting tissue healing after procedures (e.g. micro-needling, laser, HIFU).

They are available both as a component of professional cosmetics and in the form of ampoules for microneedle mesotherapy. They are often used in combination with transdermal therapies (e.g. microneedling, dermapen), which increases their bioavailability. They work well as a regenerative treatment with a deep effect.

The ASCE exosome treatment gives very good results, but costs several thousand zlotys, e.g. the Dermapen treatment costs around 3 thousand zlotys. The duration of the treatment is 15-30 minutes. Number of treatments - from 3 to 5 at intervals of 3-4 weeks. Contraindications to the treatment include pregnancy and breastfeeding, autoimmune diseases or neoplastic diseases.

The mechanism of action of exosomes on the skin

They exhibit an extremely versatile biological effect, which makes them exceptional ingredients in regenerative cosmetology. Their uniqueness lies in the fact that they are not a single active ingredient, but a complex carrier of bioactive molecules, capable of modifying the behavior of skin cells. They are like materials for strengthening the natural scaffolding of the skin, not only providing "building material" for but also transmitting signals regulating repair and anti-inflammatory processes.

One of the key functions of exosomes is the transport of bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, enzymes and microRNA. These substances penetrate the interior of target cells and affect their metabolism and gene expression. Thanks to their structure – a lipid envelope resembling a cell membrane – they are stable and able to effectively cross biological barriers, which allows for precise delivery of information deep into the skin.

The action of exosomes also includes the stimulation of tissue regeneration. The growth factors they provide, such as TGF-β (transforming) or EGF (epidermal), activate fibroblasts to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. The effect is an improvement in skin density and firmness, wrinkle reduction and accelerated healing of micro-damages. This action is of great importance not only in anti-aging therapy, but also in the treatment of scars, excessive pigmentation or skin damaged by aesthetic treatments.

Another important aspect is the modulation of inflammation and oxidative stress, which is responsible for premature skin aging. Exosomes contain immunomodulatory factors that can calm excessive skin inflammation, limiting cellular damage and supporting skin balance. The microRNAs they contain can also affect the expression of genes related to oxidative response, reducing the amount of free radicals and inhibiting degenerative processes. Their immunomodulatory properties are used to regulate the activity of the skin's immune system, also influencing the condition of sensitive skin and skin prone to acne.

The fundamental role of exosomes is also supporting intercellular communication, or so-called paracrine signaling. It is this ability – transmitting biological signals from one cell to another – that allows them to coordinate repair and rebuilding processes in the entire structure of the skin. Thanks to this, they do not act point-wise, but trigger a regenerative cascade encompassing many cells and tissues. As a result, the skin regains its ability to self-regenerate, i.e. skin regeneration processes by itself, and its barrier and structural functions are significantly improved.

Application of exosomes in cosmetics

Thanks to their advanced biological structure and ability to transmit information between cells, they are increasingly used in new generation cosmetics. Their presence in care formulas allows not only for intensive acceleration of facial regeneration, but also for real support of its physiological functions. Unlike many traditional active ingredients, these microscopic signal vesicles act not on the surface, but on the cellular level, restoring the skin's ability to repair itself.

One of the key areas of exosome application is the regenerative processes of mature and damaged skin. Skin, which loses its ability to effectively regenerate with age, requires support at the cellular level - and this is where microscopic information vesicles operate. Exosomes contain growth factors and microRNA, which is why they support the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, rebuild the structure of the dermis and stimulate collagen synthesis. As a result, the thickness and elasticity of the skin improves, as well as its ability to retain water and defend against external factors.

Cosmetics containing exosomes are also an effective element of anti-aging therapy. Thanks to their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, these ingredients counteract damage caused by free radicals, inhibit micro-inflammation accompanying skin aging (so-called inflammaging) and limit the degradation of supporting fibers. Regular use of products with exosomes can lead to visible wrinkle reduction, improved skin firmness and improved skin tone. Importantly, their effect is not only superficial - they activate deep repair processes, increasing the durability and effectiveness of the rejuvenation treatment.

Another important area of ​​application of exosomes in cosmetics is the reduction of scars, acne symptoms, reduction of acne scars and skin redness, healing of skin cells, improvement of skin tone. They can affect the regulation of sebaceous glands and alleviate chronic inflammation typical of acne skin. In addition, they support the even healing of skin lesions and prevent the formation of hypertrophic scars or post-inflammatory discolorations. In the case of skin with disturbed pigmentation, they support control over melanogenesis processes, which leads to the unification of skin tone and lightening of spots. For this reason, they are a valuable ingredient in formulas intended for the care of problematic skin requiring special care.

Safety and effectiveness of exosomes

The advantage of exosome therapy is its high safety profile. Unlike stem cells, these nano-cellular messengers do not contain a cell nucleus, so they do not carry the risk of genetic transformation or immune response. Products such as ASCE™ exosomes are additionally purified and standardized in laboratory conditions, which ensures their purity and effectiveness. What's more, they are compatible with most aesthetic treatments, so they can be easily implemented as part of combined therapies.

These modern intercellular communication systems represent the future of aesthetic medicine – regenerative, targeted and safe. They not only improve the appearance of the skin, but also have a real impact on its functioning at the cellular level. This is a technology that combines the latest biological discoveries with the needs of modern cosmetology and aesthetics. As research develops and new forms of application are implemented, cellular nanobubbles have the potential to become the gold standard in skin aging therapy and supporting regenerative processes.

The effects of exosome treatment in cosmetology have generated great interest not only because of their regenerative potential, but also because of their high safety profile. Unlike many biological substances, they are well tolerated, biocompatible and do not trigger an immune response. Their natural origin and mechanism of action based on physiological cellular communication make them an attractive and safe ingredient in modern cosmetic preparations.

The effectiveness of exosomes has been confirmed in numerous in vitro and clinical studies. In laboratory conditions, the use of exosomes derived from MSC has been shown to support fibroblast proliferation, stimulate the production of type I and III collagen, and limit the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 or TNF-α. Clinical studies conducted on patients with signs of skin aging, discoloration or acne scars indicate a significant improvement in skin parameters - including firmness, hydration, skin density and improvement in skin tone. Importantly, the results are usually long-lasting, and the side effects - if any - are minimal and limited to temporary redness after the treatments.

Compared to stem cells, new generation signaling molecules have numerous practical and safety advantages. Stem cells, despite their high regenerative potential, carry the risk of immunogenicity, genetic variability, and difficulties in storage and standardization. As a "by-product" of cell activity, they are devoid of cell nucleus and DNA material, so they do not pose a risk of neoplastic transformation or cause a rejection reaction. They are easier to purify, more stable, and more predictable in action, making them a better alternative in the context of local use in cosmetics and aesthetic treatments.

However, the high quality and safety of exosomes used in cosmetic products depend on compliance with rigorous manufacturing standards. Advanced preparations, such as ASCE™ exosomes, are obtained in laboratory conditions compliant with the principles of Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP). These processes include thorough purification of exosomes, elimination of cellular impurities and standardization of the content of bioactive components. Only products that meet the appropriate standards can be safely used on the skin, especially in regenerative and perioperative therapies. In the case of consumer cosmetics, new generation signaling molecules tested toxicologically and dermatologically are also increasingly used, which increases user confidence and effectiveness.

Considering the above perspectives, these intelligent cellular communicators have the potential to become one of the pillars of the future of cosmetology and regenerative dermatology. Their versatility – from the ability to accelerate healing and reduce scars, through stimulating hair growth, to the potential for skin rejuvenation – makes them a unique tool in the hands of specialists.

Of course, many challenges still lie ahead. Further improvement of their production methods and standardization, thorough clinical studies confirming their effectiveness and ensuring the full safety of such therapies are necessary. However, the results so far are very promising. If science manages to fully harness the potential of these nano-bubbles, cosmetology may experience a real revolution.

Perhaps in a few years, exosome-based products will become a standard element of beauty and dermatology clinics, offering patients personalized, effective, and naturally acting care. The use of exosomes combines the world of cell biology with the practice of beautifying and treating the skin – and such a synergy of science and beauty can result in amazing effects. It is very likely that they will be one of the foundations of the upcoming era of regenerative cosmetology, in which therapy focuses on stimulating the body's internal repair capabilities and targeted delivery of youth stimuli for our skin.