What is SLS and why is it important?
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is an anionic surfactant – a highly effective "degreaser" that foams strongly and aggressively dissolves sebum. For years, it was a standard ingredient in shampoos, shower gels, and toothpastes. At the same time, SLS has a high irritating potential: it disrupts the hydrolipid barrier, increases transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and is sometimes used by dermatologists as a standard for irritation in patch tests.
Orientana designs formulas to effectively cleanse without damaging the skin barrier and without unnecessary risk to sensitive skin. Therefore, they do not use SLS (or SLES). Instead, they use gentle, plant-based surfactants and ingredients that support the microbiome and hydration. Below, you'll find reliable data, comparisons, and specific INCI information.
What is SLS and how does it work?
SLS is sodium lauryl sulfate – a classic anionic surfactant. It lowers the surface tension of water and emulsifies fat, making it an excellent detacher of dirt and sebum from skin and hair. Literature reports a wide range of SLS concentrations in consumer products (from <1% to several dozen percent in industrial concentrates), and higher concentrations correlate with increased irritating effects.
What the research says: irritation, TEWL, microbiome
The standard "irritant" benchmark. In dermatology, 1% SLS is the recognized concentration for patch testing to assess skin reactivity—precisely because it predictably causes redness and dryness.
Increased TEWL after SLS. Studies show a concentration-dependent increase in TEWL and epidermal proliferation after SLS exposure, which is a marker of impaired barrier function.
The skin microbiome. Even 0.5% SLS under occlusion (24 hours) alters barrier parameters (TEWL, hydration) and modifies bacterial diversity (16S rRNA). This is an additional argument for choosing gentler cleansing systems in everyday cosmetics.
MDPI
Conclusion: SLS works effectively, but it is easy to “overload” the skin, especially with frequent, daily contact (washing hands, body, scalp), which can be problematic for sensitive skin.
SLS vs SLES and other sulfates – facts, not myths
SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) is an ethoxylated derivative of SLS, considered in the literature to be milder; however, it may still cause symptoms of dryness in reactive skin.
Various sulfate salts (e.g., ammonium lauryl sulfate) have a profile similar to SLS in terms of irritation potential – differences result from factors such as concentration, formulation, and method of use.
Law and safety: is SLS “banned” in the EU?
No. SLS is not banned in EU cosmetics. Safety assessments (CIR/Expert Panel) indicate that sulfates are safe in typical rinse-off products, but upper limits (around 1%) are established in leave-on products due to the risk of irritation. In other words, it's not "systemic toxicity," but rather a problem of local irritation at unfavorable concentrations/circumstances.
Why Orientana Doesn't Use SLS (and SLES)
Orientana's formula philosophy is to effectively cleanse without disrupting the barrier and while respecting the microbiome. For this reason, the brand consciously avoids SLS/SLES, choosing cleansing systems with documented gentleness, and also adding ingredients that buffer the sensation of tightness (e.g., betaine) and prebiotic polysaccharides (e.g., inulin).
Mild surfactants used in Orientan (examples from INCI):
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate – a very mild cleansing and foaming substance.
Coco-Betaine – a classic, soothing co-surfactant; reduces the irritating potential of anionic systems.
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside – non-ionic glucoside from plant raw materials; dissolves impurities well without “zero degreasing”.
Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate / Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate – anionic, very mild amino acid surfactants (glutamic acid derivatives).
You'll find these ingredients in our Soothing Facial Cleansing Gel, among others.
The effect in practice: effective cleansing + better skin comfort after rinsing (less tightness, less risk of increased TEWL in the daily routine).
Orientana cleansing and washing cosmetics without SLS/SLES
- Soothing facial wash gel
- Facial cleansing foam
- All hair shampoos
How to Read INCI to Avoid SLS (Simple Guide)
Look for the names in the ingredients: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES).
Generally, current cosmetics law doesn't allow the labeling "SLS/SLES-free" on packaging, making it difficult to communicate the more microbiome-friendly ingredients of cleansing products. The ban is EU-wide, and unfortunately, Orientana cannot label its products "SLS/SLES-free."
Pay attention to the formula as a whole: pH, moisturizing additives (glycerin, betaine), prebiotics (inulin) and PHA (e.g. gluconolactone) can significantly improve the skin's feeling after washing.
FAQ – most frequently asked questions about SLS
Is SLS “toxic”?
No. The problem is local irritation at certain concentrations and conditions of use. Therefore, SLS is used in studies as a positive irritation control.
What are the tangible effects of SLS irritation?
Increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), dryness, erythema, and pruritus. This phenomenon depends on the concentration and contact time.
Is SLES much better than SLS?
Typically gentler, but still may not be suitable for reactive skin; the entire formula and usage practice (frequency, contact time, pH, co-surfactants) are important.
Is SLS banned in the EU?
No. It is permitted; safety ratings (CIR) indicate safety in rinse-off products and limits for leave-on use (~1%). Orientana's decision to eliminate SLS is pro-skin, not legal.
Should sensitive people avoid SLS?
If you have sensitive/reactive skin, atopic dermatitis or a tendency to dryness – yes, consider avoiding and choose glucoside/amino acid systems and moisturizing additives.
What are the practical, gentle alternatives in Oriental?
Natural ingredients: Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Coco-Betaine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, (Di)Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate + soothing ingredients (e.g. betaine, inulin, gluconolactone).
Can low sulfate be OK?
In some market formulas, reduced sulphate concentrations and good co-surfactants improve tolerance, but Orientana's philosophy is to not use SLS/SLES at all, because mild alternatives provide similar effectiveness without unnecessary risk.
Is sodium lauryl sulfate carcinogenic?
No. This is a myth often repeated online. SLS is not carcinogenic and is not classified as a carcinogen in the EU or the US. The problem is its local irritation, not systemic toxicity.
Can SLS be used daily?
This is not recommended for sensitive or dry skin. Regular contact with SLS can disrupt the hydrolipid barrier and increase water loss through the skin. Dermatologists recommend choosing gentle cleansers for daily care.
Are SLS and SLES the same?
No. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is a derivative of SLS that, thanks to the ethoxylation process, has a milder effect. However, it can still irritate reactive skin, which is why natural brands—including Orientana—do not use either SLS or SLES.
Is SLS only found in cosmetics?
No. SLS is also widely used in household products: dishwashing liquids, cleaning products, and laundry detergents. This demonstrates how powerful this detergent is and why it shouldn't be a daily skincare ingredient.
Does SLS harm hair?
It can dry out the hair fiber and irritate the scalp. Frequent use of shampoos containing SLS can cause hair to become dull, rough, and brittle. That's why Orientana uses gentle glucosides and amino acid surfactants that cleanse effectively without damaging the hair structure.
Can children use cosmetics with SLS?
This is not recommended. Children's skin is thinner and more susceptible to dryness. Therefore, cosmetics for children should be free of harsh detergents and contain only gentle cleansing ingredients.
Why do manufacturers still use SLS?
SLS is very inexpensive to produce and produces a rich lather, which consumers associate with "thorough cleansing." These are the main reasons for its popularity. Premium and natural brands are increasingly abandoning this compromise, opting for gentler and more expensive alternatives.
Can you be allergic to SLS?
Yes. While irritation is the most common cause, some people may develop contact dermatitis after exposure to SLS. This manifests as redness, itching, and peeling of the skin.
Are “SLS-free” cosmetics really gentle?
Not necessarily. It depends on the entire formula – the type of other surfactants, pH, and skincare additives (e.g., glycerin, betaine, inulin). Therefore, it's worth choosing brands that clearly declare their philosophy of creating gentle formulas, such as Orientana.
Which Orientana cosmetics are SLS-free?
All – facial cleansing cosmetics , hair cleansing cosmetics.
Word from a trichologist:
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) is an effective detergent, but with a high irritating potential: it increases TEWL and is a pattern of irritation in dermatological tests.
It is not banned in the EU; safety depends on the concentration and type of product – in rinse-off products it is sometimes acceptable, in leave-on products limits are recommended.
PubMed
Orientana consistently does not use SLS/SLES, focusing on mild surfactants (glucosides, amino acids, amphoteric) and barrier and microbiome support.
Sources
Wilhelm, K. P., Freitag, G., & Hölzle, E. (1994). Irritant patch testing with sodium lauryl sulfate: inter- and intrandividual variations and the influence of body region. Contact Dermatitis, 30(3), 149–153.
→ studies showing the use of 1% SLS as a standard irritation control.
Effendy, I., & Maibach, H. I. (1995). Sodium lauryl sulfate-induced irritation in the human epidermis: an overview. Contact Dermatitis, 33(1), 1–7.
→ classic study confirming concentration-dependent increase in TEWL and disruption of the epidermal barrier.
Held, E., Agner, T., & Frosch, P. (2001). Effects of long-term exposure to water and detergents on skin barrier function. Contact Dermatitis, 45(2), 101–105.
→ shows that repeated contact with SLS increases water loss and irritation.
Nawaz, S., et al. (2020). Effect of sodium lauryl sulfate on the skin microbiome and barrier function in human volunteers. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 33(4), 221–229.
→ evidence that even 0.5% SLS under occlusion changes the skin microbiome and barrier parameters.
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. (2010, updated 2015). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. International Journal of Toxicology, 29(Suppl 3), 151S–161S.
→ safety rating: safe in rinse-off products, restrictions for leave-on.
Fiume, M. M., et al. (2015). Safety Assessment of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Related Salts. Cosmetic Ingredient Review, Washington DC.
→ updated safety opinion on SLS/SLES in cosmetics.
Ananthapadmanabhan, K.P., et al. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: the impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17, 16–25.
→ comparison of mild surfactants (glucosides, amino acids) with SLS.
