Blackheads are one of the most common skin problems faced by both teenagers and adults. They can appear as black dots or white lumps, appearing on the nose, chin, or forehead, and impact aesthetics and quality of life. While they don't always cause inflammation, they often initiate the development of acne.
In this post I will explain:
- what are blackheads and why do they appear,
- what is their epidemiology like in Poland and Europe,
- what home and professional methods are the most effective,
- what natural cosmetics, including those with gluconolactone and Hydro Tremella, support the fight against this problem.
What are blackheads?
A blackhead is a clogged hair follicle filled with excess sebum, dead skin cells, and impurities. They are divided into two basic forms:
- Open comedones (blackheads) – a black dot is visible on the skin's surface. The dark color is due to oxidation of melanin and lipids, not the presence of dirt.
- Closed comedones (whiteheads) appear as small, light-colored lumps beneath the skin's surface. They can lead to inflammation.
Although they are often associated with teenagers, they are also increasingly occurring in adults – especially women.
How common are blackheads? Statistics Poland, Europe, and the world.
Poland
In a cross-sectional study from 2025 involving several thousand people, 32.7% of Poles reported acne (including blackheads). It is one of the most common dermatoses, alongside dandruff and hair loss.
In another online survey covering adolescents and young adults from several EU countries, 42.2% of respondents in Poland declared acne.
Europe
In the same study, the percentage was as high as 73.5% in the Czech Republic and Slovakia. The average for the seven countries studied was 57.8%.
Data from the Global Burden of Disease (GBD) analysis show that the highest incidence of acne is in Western Europe, with a peak between the ages of 15 and 19. Women in this group had approximately a 25% higher incidence than men.
Global data
The ALL Project (Pierre Fabre) confirms the high prevalence of skin diseases, including acne, and significant psychosocial consequences (e.g., sleep problems ~41%, fatigue ~50%). You can safely cite these data in the "impact on quality of life" section.
How do blackheads form?
Blackheads appear as a result of complex biological and environmental processes. There is no single cause—usually several factors combine to clog the sebaceous glands.
Excessive sebum production
Sebum is a natural mixture of lipids that protects the skin and maintains its hydrolipid barrier. In people prone to acne and blackheads, the sebaceous glands overwork, producing too much sebum.
The main stimulating factor is androgenic hormones (e.g., testosterone and its derivatives). This is why, during puberty, when androgen levels rise dramatically, so many people experience an increase in skin problems.
Too much sebum clogs pores and, combined with the remains of epidermal cells and impurities, creates a plug – a blackhead.
Disturbed keratinization
Keratinization is the natural process of skin cell death and exfoliation. In people with acne-prone skin, this process is slowed or abnormal. Dead cells do not fall off evenly but accumulate around the openings of hair follicles.
They form a layer that, when combined with sebum, blocks pores. This is why blackheads can appear even with proper skin hygiene and facial washing.
Disturbed keratinization is also why PHA acids, such as gluconolactone, are so effective – they help dissolve dead cells and restore the skin's natural exfoliation rhythm.
Diet
Epidemiological studies indicate that a diet with a high glycemic index ( products that quickly raise blood sugar levels, e.g. sweets, white bread, sweetened drinks) promotes the intensification of acne lesions and the formation of blackheads.
Some publications also show a link between excess dairy (especially milk) and acne. It likely affects levels of insulin-like growth factor (IGF-1), which stimulates the sebaceous glands.
This doesn't mean that everyone has to completely eliminate dairy or sweets - but it's worth observing your skin and noting whether certain products aggravate the problem.
Stress and hormones
Mental stress increases the secretion of cortisol, a hormone that indirectly stimulates the sebaceous glands . Hormonal fluctuations , such as those experienced during puberty, pregnancy, or the menstrual cycle, can increase sebum production and promote the formation of blackheads. This explains why, for many women, the problem worsens before menstruation.
Environmental pollution
Smog, dust, and air pollution settle on the skin's surface, increasing the number of micropollutants at the pores. Combined with excess sebum, they create a plug that is difficult to remove. In cities, the problem of blackheads is often exacerbated by exposure to environmental factors.
Improper care
Paradoxically, both a lack of proper hygiene and overly aggressive skincare can lead to blackheads. Heavy, comedogenic cosmetics clog pores.
On the other hand, using too strong detergents, e.g. washing products with Sodium Laureth Sulfate, dries the skin – which stimulates the sebaceous glands to produce even more sebum.
It is optimal to use mild cleansers and moisturizing creams (e.g. from the Hydro Tremella series), which support the skin's protective barrier without weighing it down.
How to recognize a blackhead
Blackheads may look similar, but their type determines further care and the risk of complications.
Open comedones (blackheads)
They appear as small, dark dots on the skin's surface —most often on the nose, chin, and forehead. The dark color is the result of oxidation of melanin and lipids contained within the comedone—it is not "dirt."
Open comedones are usually easier to clean because their contents are exposed to the environment and are softer. If not cared for properly, they can lead to enlarged pores and uneven skin texture.
Closed comedones (white)
They appear as small, clear lumps beneath the skin's surface . They are often firmer to the touch than open comedones. They form when sebum and dead cells become trapped beneath the thin layer of epidermis, without contact with air.
Closed comedones are more susceptible to developing inflammation because they provide a favorable environment for bacterial growth. They usually require longer-term care, with exfoliating acids (e.g., gluconolactone) and regular moisturizing being helpful.
Why does the distinction matter?
Open comedones can be supported by cleansing , masks and surface acids.
Closed comedones require patience, gentle exfoliation and products that regulate the keratinization process.
This distinction is crucial because improper care (e.g. intensive squeezing of closed comedones) increases the risk of inflammation and acne scarring.
Home remedies for blackheads
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Herbal steamers – help open pores and facilitate cleansing.
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Clays – absorb sebum, cleanse the skin.
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Enzymatic peels – gently dissolve dead cells.
- A balanced diet and hydration – limit excessive sebum production.
Cosmetics for blackheads - active ingredients
Fighting blackheads isn't just about removing existing lesions, but also, and above all, preventing their formation . The key is choosing cosmetics containing active ingredients that work on several levels: regulating sebum production, accelerating the exfoliation of dead skin cells, cleansing pores, and maintaining the balance of the skin's microbiome.
Below you will find the most important ingredients whose effectiveness is confirmed by numerous dermatological studies.
BHA acids – salicylic acid (H3)
- How does it work? Salicylic acid is the only beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) used in cosmetics. It's fat-soluble, allowing it to penetrate pores and dissolve sebum and dead skin cells accumulated there.
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Why is it effective? It's the most important ingredient in cosmetics for open blackheads. Regular use reduces the number of blackheads and smooths the skin's surface.
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Additional benefits: anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, soothes inflammation.
- Note: Use with caution – too high concentrations may cause irritation, especially in sensitive skin.
AHA acids – fruit acids
- How do they work? Glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). They exfoliate dead cells from the skin's surface, smoothing it and preventing pore clogging.
- Why are they useful? They work well on closed comedones because they accelerate the epidermal renewal process.
- Additional benefits: lightens acne discolorations and improves skin tone.
- Note: They can be irritating, so it's best to introduce them gradually and always use sun protection.
PHA acids – gluconolactone
- What are they? Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a new generation of exfoliating acids, much gentler than AHAs or BHAs.
- Gluconolactone is especially recommended for people with sensitive, dry or vascular skin.
- How does it work? It gently exfoliates dead cells, has antioxidant properties (neutralizes free radicals), binds water to the skin, improving its hydration, and supports the reconstruction of the hydrolipid barrier.
- Why is it important for blackheads? It helps keep pores clean without causing irritation. Ideal for long-term use and when combined with other active ingredients.
Product example: Orientana Moisturizing Tonic-Essence with Gluconolactone
– a great option for skin prone to blackheads that requires gentle but effective exfoliation.
Retinoids and retinol
- How do they work? Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) are the gold standard in dermatology for treating acne and blackheads. They accelerate cell renewal, normalize the keratinization process, and reduce the risk of clogged pores.
- Effect: reducing the number of blackheads, smoothing the skin and improving its elasticity.
- Additional advantages: they have an anti-wrinkle effect, so they combine anti-acne and anti-aging functions.
- Note: May cause skin irritation and peeling in the first few weeks of use. Therefore, we recommend Retinol H10, which is more stable and non-sensitizing.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
- How does it work? It regulates sebum production, strengthens the skin's hydrolipid barrier, and has anti-inflammatory properties.
- Why is it helpful? With regular use, it reduces sebum production, which reduces the tendency for pores to become clogged.
- Additional benefits: lightens acne discolorations, improves skin tone and elasticity.
- Combination: works great with PHA and AHA acids and moisturizing ingredients such as tremella or hyaluronic acid.
Clays
- How do they work? They act as a natural "magnet" for sebum and toxins, absorbing excess sebum and impurities from the skin's surface.
- Types: green (most cleansing), white (most gentle, recommended for sensitive skin), pink, red.
- Why do they help with blackheads? Regularly used clay masks unclog pores and reduce the appearance of blackheads.
- Note: do not allow the mask to dry completely on your face - you can moisten it with hydrolate to prevent it from drying out the skin.
Supporting substances
- Zinc – has anti-inflammatory properties, regulates sebum secretion.
- Sulfur – has keratolytic and antibacterial properties.
- Probiotics and prebiotics – support the balance of the skin microbiome, which reduces the risk of inflammation.
- Antioxidants (e.g. vitamin C, plant extracts) – reduce oxidative stress, which intensifies inflammatory processes in the skin.
Why does combining ingredients give the best results?
Skin with blackheads requires multidimensional care:
- exfoliation (BHA, PHA, AHA),
- sebum regulation (niacinamide, zinc),
- moisturizing and rebuilding the barrier (tremella, hyaluronic acid),
- anti-inflammatory effect (retinoids, antioxidants).
Using a single ingredient is often not enough. Therefore, in practice, the best results are achieved with a well-planned skincare routine, combining, for example, a toner with gluconolactone, a serum with niacinamide, and a moisturizing cream (e.g., Hydro Tremella).
Orientana cosmetics supporting the care of skin with blackheads
Moisturizing tonic-essence with gluconolactone
- Gluconolactone (PHA) gently exfoliates, does not irritate, and binds water in the epidermis.
- Recommended for people who have sensitive skin and do not tolerate strong acids well.
- When used regularly, it helps cleanse pores, reducing the risk of blackheads.
Hydro Tremella series: serum, cream, mask
- Tremella (snow mushroom) – a plant-based ingredient with strong moisturizing properties, compared to hyaluronic acid.
- Hydro Tremella Serum – a light formula that does not burden the skin, perfect under cream.
- Hydro Tremella Cream – protects the hydrolipid barrier, prevents excessive sebum production.
- Hydro Tremella Mask – intensive treatment for blackheads and highly moisturizing, used 1-2 times a week.
Thanks to proper hydration, the Hydro Tremella series supports skin balance, which is crucial in the fight against blackheads.
Professional blackhead treatments
- Manual cleansing – performed by a cosmetologist.
- Chemical peels – AHA/BHA acids, retinoids.
- Microdermabrasion – exfoliates dead skin cells.
- LED light (blue) – has anti-inflammatory properties.
How to prevent blackheads?
- Daily but gentle cleansing.
- Regular exfoliation with mild acids (e.g. gluconolactone).
- Moisturizing the skin to avoid stimulating the sebaceous glands to overproduce sebum.
- Avoiding comedogenic cosmetics.
- Healthy diet and stress reduction.
Frequently Asked Questions (Q&A)
Can blackheads be squeezed out?
It is not recommended as it may lead to inflammation and scarring.
How often should I use gluconolactone?
It is a mild acid so it can be used daily, for example in a facial cleanser.
Is Hydro Tremella suitable for oily skin?
Yes – it is a light formula, does not burden pores, and provides adequate hydration.
Does diet affect blackheads?
Yes, high GI foods and dairy can exacerbate the problem in some people.
Are blackheads the same as acne?
Blackheads are a form of non-inflammatory acne (also known as comedonal acne). Not all acne necessarily involves inflammation – for many people, blackheads and whiteheads are the main problem. However, if not properly cared for, they can develop into inflammatory lesions.
Why do I have blackheads even though I wash my face twice a day?
The problem of blackheads isn't just a hygiene issue. The main causes include overproduction of sebum, abnormal keratinization of the epidermis, hormonal and genetic factors. Washing your face is just one part of your skincare routine – exfoliation (e.g., with PHA or BHA acids) and moisturizing are also necessary.
How long does it take to remove blackheads?
Visible improvement can be seen after 4–8 weeks of regular care. Stubborn closed comedones may require longer treatment—even several months. Consistency and patience are key, as the skin needs time to normalize its keratinization and sebum secretion processes.
What cosmetics are best for blackheads?
Products with BHA (salicylic acid), PHA (gluconolactone), retinoids, and niacinamide are effective. Clay masks are also helpful. It's important to also moisturize—for example, with a cream from the Hydro Tremella line—because dehydrated skin produces even more sebum.
Do sunscreens cause blackheads?
Not all. Older formulas with heavy chemical filters or fatty oils could be comedogenic. Nowadays, lightweight SPF creams are available that don't clog pores. Furthermore, sun protection is crucial when using acids and retinol.
What home remedies help with blackheads?
The most popular include herbal steam baths, clay masks, gentle enzymatic peels, and proper skin hydration. However, it's worth remembering that home remedies are no substitute for cosmetics with active ingredients.
Why do blackheads appear mainly on the nose and chin?
This is the so-called T-zone, which is characterized by the highest activity of the sebaceous glands. Excess sebum and narrowed hair follicles contribute to the formation of hair plugs in these areas.
Do blackheads disappear on their own?
For some people, blackheads may disappear on their own after puberty when hormones stabilize. However, for many, the problem persists into adulthood. Therefore, it's worth implementing a skincare routine to control their number and prevent inflammation.
Can stress worsen blackheads?
Yes. Stress increases cortisol levels, which stimulates the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum. This can result in an increased number of blackheads and inflammation.
How often should you use acids for blackheads?
It depends on the type of acid and skin tolerance:
- PHA (e.g. gluconolactone) – can be used daily, even on sensitive skin.
- BHA (salicylic acid) – usually 2–4 times a week.
- AHA (glycolic acid, lactic acid) – 1–3 times a week, depending on the concentration. It's best to start with a lower frequency and gradually increase it.
Can natural cosmetics help with blackheads?
Yes, many natural ingredients, such as clays, plant-derived niacinamide, plant polysaccharides (e.g., tremella), and biotechnologically produced PHAs, support the skin's fight against imperfections. It's important that these formulas are lightweight and non-comedogenic.
Cosmetologist's advice:
Blackheads are a common dermatological problem, affecting up to one-third of Poles and over half of European youth. Although they are a common symptom of acne, proper care, diet, and lifestyle can effectively reduce their number.
In skincare, it's worth reaching for gentle PHA acids (gluconolactone) and moisturizing products like Hydro Tremella, which help restore skin's balance. For severe symptoms, professional cosmetic treatments and dermatologist consultations are also helpful.
