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Bariera hydrolipidowa skóry – jak działa i jak ją odbudować?

WHY THE HYDROLIPID BARRIER NEEDS ATTENTION

Do you know how important the skin's hydrolipid barrier is? Its role is not only protection, but it plays an important role in maintaining the health and integrity of the skin, which directly affects its appearance.

Hydrolipid barrier – what is it?

The hydrolipid barrier is a natural protective layer of the skin, which consists of water, lipids (fats) and dead skin cells. Its main task is to protect the skin from moisture loss and harmful external factors, such as bacteria, pollution and UV radiation.

Composition of the hydrolipid barrier

  1. Lipids (fats):
    • These are natural oils, ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol that fill the intercellular spaces in the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
  2. Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF):
    • Water-binding substances such as hyaluronic acid, amino acids, lactates or urea.
  3. Dead epidermal cells (corneocytes):
    • They create a specific protective structure, resembling "bricks" that are held together by lipids ("mortar").

Functions of the hydrolipid barrier

The skin's hydrolipid barrier acts as the first line of defense against harmful external factors such as bacteria, viruses, fungi, pollutants, and toxins, protecting the skin from infections and irritations. It is also a key element in maintaining the right level of skin hydration, protecting against excessive water loss (transepidermal water loss - TEWL) through the epidermis. Proper hydration is essential for the elasticity, softness, and overall health of the skin.

The hydrolipid barrier also helps maintain skin homeostasis by regulating the metabolic processes occurring in skin cells, such as cell renewal and healing processes, which contributes to the healthy and youthful appearance of the skin.

  • Moisture Loss Protection: Prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by keeping skin hydrated.
  • Protection against external factors: Provides a barrier against allergens, pollutants, microorganisms and UV radiation.
  • Microbiome Regulation: Supports the balance of good bacteria on the skin's surface.

Disturbances of the hydrolipid barrier

If the hydrolipid barrier is damaged, the skin may:

  • Become dry, rough and more susceptible to irritation.
  • Experience inflammatory conditions such as eczema, atopic dermatitis or acne.
  • Be more susceptible to allergens and infections.

How to care for the hydrolipid barrier?

Proper care and protection of the hydrolipid barrier are important to prevent water loss and protect the skin from negative environmental factors. Dry skin, a feeling of tightness, overproduction of sebum are just a few symptoms of a damaged barrier.

  1. Avoid aggressive detergents: Use gentle detergents without SLS and alcohol.
  2. Use moisturizing products: Choose cosmetics with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, vegetable oils and niacinamide.
  3. Protect your skin from UV: Use sunscreen regularly.
  4. Avoid over-exfoliation: Use chemical and mechanical exfoliants in moderation.
  5. Maintain proper air humidity: Use humidifiers during the heating season.

Keratinocytes - what is it?

Keratinocytes are responsible for the production of keratin, an important element of our skin, hair and nails. Disturbances in the keratinization process can lead to damage of the epidermis and weakening of the hydrolipid barrier.

Keratinocytes are the main cells of the epidermis, constituting about 90% of all cells in this layer of the skin. They are responsible for the production of keratin , a structural protein that strengthens the skin and makes it more resistant to mechanical and chemical damage.

Disorders of keratinocyte function and the hydrolipid barrier

Damaged keratinocyte function can lead to:

  • Susceptibility to irritations, allergies or skin inflammations (e.g. eczema, atopic dermatitis).
  • Weakening of the hydrolipid barrier.
  • Increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Orientana cosmetics and the hydrolipid barrier

Orientana brand products, such as essences, creams and oils, contain ingredients that support the reconstruction of the hydrolipid barrier, e.g.:

A properly functioning hydrolipid barrier is the basis for healthy and beautiful skin! 😊

Ceramides are the key to HYDROLIPID BARRIER care

Ceramides are key lipids that act as a cement for skin cells, keratinocytes. Due to their structure, they are effective in rebuilding the skin's natural barrier, which is crucial for keeping skin healthy and moisturized.

Ceramides in daily care

The use of ceramides can provide support for dry, sensitized skin and during retinoid or acid treatment. Choosing the right ceramides, such as CERAFLUID® contained in ADVANCED SKIN REPAIR SERUM , can significantly contribute to the reconstruction of the skin barrier.

Hydrolipid barrier protected by liquid ceramides

This unique CERAFLUID® ingredient has the ability to mimic the function of skin cell membrane lipids, which translates into deeper penetration and more effective action. It is the ideal solution for those who want to improve skin elasticity, firmness and hydration and quickly and effectively rebuild the skin barrier.

CARESOFT - a modern complex with a new approach to the hydrolipid barrier

CARESOFT™ is an innovative active ingredient derived from the root of the Curculigo orchioides plant, known for its soothing and skin regenerating properties. Its main action is to improve the condition of sensitive skin by reducing reactivity, restoring the integrity of the epidermis and strengthening the hydrolipid barrier.

Creams strengthening the hydrolipid barrier with this ingredient: Kali Musli day cream , Kali Musli night cream, Kali Musli enzymatic peeling .

CARESOFT™ action:

  • Skin pH regulation: CARESOFT™ affects the NHE1 protein in keratinocytes, which leads to the reconstruction of the pH gradient in the epidermis and acidification of the stratum corneum. Thanks to this, it improves the cohesion of epidermal cells and increases the effectiveness of the epidermal barrier.
  • Reduced skin reactivity: In a 28-day study on people with sensitive skin, the use of CARESOFT™ reduced the frequency of irritation by 65%. In people who still felt sensitive to irritants, the intensity of the irritation reaction was significantly lower.
  • Strengthening the hydrolipid barrier: CARESOFT™ accelerates the regeneration of the skin barrier by 20% and increases its protection by 13%, resulting in better integrity of the stratum corneum and increased skin resistance to external factors.

CARESOFT™ - a component of the series for sensitive skin

CARESOFT™ is recommended for products designed for sensitive and atopic skin, such as emulsions, gels, decorative cosmetics, as well as products for men (e.g. aftershave), children and intimate hygiene cosmetics. Thanks to its natural origin and effectiveness in improving the condition of the skin, CARESOFT™ is a valuable ingredient in modern cosmetic formulas, supporting the health and comfort of the skin.

  • Soothes irritations: Thanks to its soothing properties, CARESOFT™ reduces skin discomfort by reducing burning, itching and redness.
  • Skin Barrier Reconstruction: Improves epidermal cell cohesion by restoring the integrity of the hydrolipid barrier, which protects the skin from moisture loss and harmful external factors.
  • Reduced reactivity: Regular use of CARESOFT™ products reduces skin sensitivity to irritants, which is particularly beneficial for people with atopic or irritation-prone skin.

Restoring and supporting the hydrolipid barrier with DIY cosmetics is possible thanks to the use of natural ingredients that moisturize, regenerate and protect the skin. Here's how to create products that support the hydrolipid barrier:

The hydrolipid barrier can be supported with home cosmetics.

The basic principles of home care are as follows:

  1. Use moisturizing ingredients: They help bind water in the skin (e.g. glycerin, aloe, hyaluronic acid).
  2. Strengthen skin lipids: Choose natural oils rich in fatty acids, e.g. jojoba oil, avocado oil, shea butter.
  3. Avoid irritating substances: Denatured alcohol, SLS and other harsh detergents can weaken the skin barrier.
  4. Get your pH right: Products should have a pH of 4.5–5.5 to support the skin’s natural acid mantle.

How the hydrolipid barrier will be strengthened with DIY cosmetics

Below are recipes for homemade cosmetics that the hydrolipid barrier will love:

1. Moisturizing face toner

  • Ingredients:
    • 50 ml of rose hydrolate (moisturizes, soothes).
    • 5 ml of vegetable glycerin (binds water in the skin).
    • 5 drops of D-panthenol (regenerates and soothes irritations).
  • Preparation method:
    • Mix all ingredients in a spray bottle.
    • Use after cleansing your face, before cream.

2. Protective face cream

  • Ingredients:
    • 30 g shea butter (protects the skin, strengthens the barrier).
    • 10 g avocado oil (rich in vitamins and fatty acids).
    • 5 ml of vitamin E (natural antioxidant).
    • Optional: 5 drops of your favorite essential oil (e.g. lavender).
  • Preparation method:
    • Melt the shea butter in a water bath.
    • Add avocado oil and vitamin E, mix thoroughly.
    • Pour into a jar and wait until it hardens.
    • Use as a night or day cream, especially in the winter season.

3. Moisturizing serum based on aloe

  • Ingredients:
    • 20 ml aloe gel (moisturizes and soothes).
    • 5 ml jojoba oil (mimics sebum, supports the lipid barrier).
    • 3 drops of hyaluronic acid 1% (binds water in the epidermis).
  • Preparation method:
    • Combine all ingredients in a bottle with a pipette.
    • Shake before each use and apply before cream.

4. Regenerating overnight mask

  • Ingredients:
    • 2 tablespoons of natural yogurt (moisturizes and regenerates).
    • 1 teaspoon of honey (soothes and supports regeneration).
    • 1 teaspoon sweet almond oil (strengthens skin lipids).
  • Preparation method:
    • Mix all ingredients and apply on face for 15–20 minutes.
    • Rinse off with lukewarm water and apply cream.

Additional home care tips

Natural DIY cosmetics are a great way to strengthen the hydrolipid barrier, while also providing the skin with safe, natural care ingredients. 😊 Remember not to overdo it with exfoliators. The hydrolipid barrier can be easily damaged by those with coarse particles. In DIY cosmetics, use gentle exfoliators, e.g. based on finely ground oatmeal.

In fact, you can make a natural lotion with a UV filter, using zinc oxide as a protective ingredient. However, the hydrolipid barrier will be more secure if you use good creams with SPF.

Take care of the humidity in the room so that the skin does not lose water.

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