Inspirations
Collagen for skin and hair - properties and effects
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, accounting for about 30% of total protein mass. It plays a key role as the primary structural component of connective tissue, including skin, bones, tendons, cartilage, and blood vessels. Its main function is to ensure the structural integrity of tissues and organs, giving them mechanical strength, flexibility, and elasticity. The Role of Collagen in Maintaining Healthy Skin and Hair In the context of skin health, collagen plays an invaluable role. It provides elasticity, firmness and proper hydration, which translates into a young and healthy appearance. Collagen participates in cell renewal processes, supports wound healing and protects the skin from the harmful effects of external factors. When it comes to hair, collagen supports the health of hair follicles, which affects their growth and condition. It helps maintain the structure of the scalp, providing it with elasticity and resilience. As a result, hair becomes stronger, more flexible and less susceptible to damage. As we age, the body's natural collagen production decreases, which leads to loss of skin elasticity, wrinkles, and weakened hair structure. That's why it's important to maintain its proper level through a healthy diet, supplementation, and the use of appropriate cosmetics. What is collagen? Collagen is the most common structural protein in the human body, accounting for about 30% of all proteins. It plays a key role in ensuring the integrity and elasticity of tissues such as skin, bones, tendons and cartilage. At least 28 different types of collagen have been identified in the human body, each of which has specific functions and is found in specific tissues. The most important include: • Type I collagen: The most common, accounting for about 90% of the total collagen in the body. It is found mainly in the skin, tendons, bones and teeth, providing them with strength and elasticity. • Collagen type II: Present primarily in joint cartilage, where it is responsible for their elasticity and shock absorption. • Collagen Type III: Found in reticular connective tissue, blood vessels, and skin, supporting the structure of internal organs and vessels. • Type IV Collagen: Forms basement membrane structures that separate and support different tissue layers, such as the epithelium and endothelium. • Type V collagen: Co-occurs with type I collagen, playing a role in the formation of collagen fibers and is found in skin, bones, and placenta. The diversity of collagen types allows their properties to be adapted to the specific requirements of different tissues, which is crucial for the proper functioning of the body. The role of collagen in the skin Collagen is an important building block of tissues, responsible for the elasticity and firmness of the skin. Its fibers create a structure that gives the skin strength and elasticity, which translates into its healthy appearance. Additionally, collagen has the ability to retain water, which helps maintain proper skin hydration. Moisturized skin is less prone to dryness, flaking and wrinkling. The effect of collagen on delaying skin aging processes, such as wrinkle formation With age, the body's natural collagen production decreases, which leads to a loss of skin elasticity and firmness, and consequently to wrinkles. Regular supplementation with good quality collagen can improve skin elasticity, firmness and tension, reduce the visibility of cellulite and strengthen hair and nails. Additionally, using cosmetics containing collagen can improve skin hydration, elasticity and density, which translates into a reduction in the visibility of wrinkles. In summary, collagen plays a fundamental role in maintaining the health and youthful appearance of the skin, influencing its elasticity, firmness and hydration, and its appropriate level can delay the skin aging processes. The role of collagen in hair Collagen is a protein that supports hair structure by providing essential amino acids for the production of keratin, the main building block of hair. This makes hair stronger, more flexible and resilient, which translates into a healthier appearance and less susceptibility to breakage. Protecting hair from mechanical and environmental damage Collagen creates a protective layer on the surface of the hair, which protects it from harmful external factors, such as UV radiation, environmental pollution or high temperatures during styling. Additionally, collagen helps maintain proper hair hydration, which protects it from drying out and related damage. Regular collagen supplementation can support hair regeneration processes, making them stronger, thicker and less susceptible to mechanical damage. In summary, collagen plays a key role in maintaining hair health, strengthening its structure, increasing elasticity and protecting against various types of damage. Natural decline in collagen production Collagen production begins to decline after the age of 25, at a rate of about 1% per year. After the age of 50, collagen synthesis is lower than its breakdown, and around the age of 70, the body practically stops producing it. Additionally, factors such as UV radiation, smoking, stress, or an unhealthy diet can accelerate collagen degradation. The effects of collagen deficiency on skin and hair The reduction of collagen in the skin results in the formation of wrinkles, a reduction in firmness and an increase in laxity. In addition, a deficiency of collagen can lead to weakening of the hair, making it more susceptible to breakage and loss. In summary, the natural decline in collagen production with age negatively affects the condition of the skin and hair, leading to visible signs of aging and a deterioration of their structure and appearance. Collagen supplementation Available forms of collagen • Hydrolyzed collagen: This is collagen that has undergone a hydrolysis process that breaks down the protein into smaller peptides, which increases its absorption. This is the most commonly used form in dietary supplements. • Collagen Powder: A powdered form of collagen that can be easily dissolved in water or other liquids. It allows for flexible dosing and is a popular choice for people who prefer to add collagen to their daily drinks or meals. • Collagen in capsules/tablets: A convenient form of supplementation, allowing precise dosing. Ideal for people who value simplicity and ease of use. • Liquid collagen: Ready-to-consume liquid forms of collagen, often enriched with additional ingredients, such as vitamins or minerals, supporting its action. Considered to be well-absorbed and convenient to use. Benefits of supplementation for improving skin and hair condition • Improving skin elasticity and firmness: Regular intake of collagen can significantly improve skin elasticity, increase its firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. • Skin hydration: Collagen acts as a natural moisturizer, retaining water in the epidermis and improving hydration, which makes the skin look healthier. • Strengthening the hair structure: Collagen affects the elasticity and density of hair, which helps prevent breakage and split ends. • Hair Growth Stimulation: Regular collagen supplementation can stimulate hair follicles to produce new strands, leading to thicker, healthier hair. • Protection against damage: Collagen helps protect hair from harmful environmental factors such as wind and dry air. Choosing the right form of collagen depends on individual preferences and lifestyle. It is important that supplementation is regular and combined with a healthy diet and proper care, which will allow you to achieve the best results in improving the condition of your skin and hair. Collagen in cosmetics Collagen is commonly used in a variety of cosmetic products: • Creams: These products are designed to moisturize the skin, improve its elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Regular use of collagen creams can support the skin's regenerative processes, contributing to its smoother and tighter appearance. • Serum: Thanks to their concentrated formula, serums with collagen intensively moisturize and nourish the skin, supporting its regeneration and improving elasticity. • Face masks: Collagen masks provide the skin with nutrients that help regenerate, moisturize and firm the skin. The impact of collagen cosmetics on skin hydration and elasticity Using cosmetics containing collagen brings numerous benefits to the skin: • Moisturizing: Collagen has the ability to bind water, which helps maintain the right level of skin hydration. This makes the skin softer, smoother and radiant. • Elasticity and firmness: Regular use of cosmetics with collagen can help improve skin elasticity and firmness, which helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and delay the aging process. Introducing collagen into your daily skin care routine, through the use of appropriate cosmetics, can significantly improve your skin’s condition, providing hydration, elasticity and a youthful appearance. Diet to support collagen production Foods rich in amino acids necessary for collagen synthesis Collagen synthesis requires the presence of specific amino acids, such as glycine, proline, and lysine. Sources of these amino acids include: • Meat: Beef, chicken and pork provide amino acids necessary for collagen production. • Fish: Fish skin in particular is rich in collagen and amino acids that support its synthesis. • Eggs: Egg protein contains proline and glycine, crucial for collagen production. • Dairy products: Rich in amino acids that support collagen synthesis. The role of vitamins and minerals in the collagen production process In addition to amino acids, collagen synthesis requires the presence of specific vitamins and minerals: • Vitamin C: Plays a key role as a cofactor for enzymes involved in collagen synthesis, supporting the formation of stable collagen fibers. Citrus fruits, peppers, broccoli and berries are rich in vitamin C. • Zinc: Supports the collagen synthesis process and stabilizes its structure. Found in meat, nuts, pumpkin seeds and seafood. • Copper: Participates in the formation of cross-links in the collagen structure, which ensures its strength. It is present in liver, cocoa and cashew nuts. • Sulfur: It participates in collagen synthesis by creating sulfur bonds that stabilize its structure. Products rich in sulfur include garlic, onion and cabbage. Including these ingredients in your daily diet can significantly support your body's natural collagen production, helping to maintain healthy and supple skin and strong joints.
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two-step facial cleansing
Two-step facial cleansing is something we've been hearing about for a while now. Healthy, radiant skin starts with proper cleansing. One of the best ways to take care of your skin is to double-step facial cleansing, which effectively removes makeup, impurities, and excess sebum. A key element of this ritual is a natural make-up removal oil. Find out why you should reach for this product and how to cleanse your skin properly. Where does two-step facial cleansing come from? Two-step cleansing has its roots in Korean skincare (K-Beauty) . It’s one of the key steps in this routine that has gained popularity around the world, especially among those striving for healthy, radiant skin. This method was created in response to the problem of thoroughly removing makeup, sunscreens and impurities from the face, which traditional washing often left incomplete. Why is it worth using makeup removal oil? Makeup removal oil is the first step in two-step cleansing. It dissolves even waterproof make-up, removes sebum and impurities accumulated on the skin during the day. Natural oils do not damage the hydrolipid barrier, which means that the skin remains moisturized and elastic. WHICH OILS WE RECOMMEND Typically, a two-step facial cleansing oil is made up of a mixture of oils that do the job best. Properties and use of vegetable oils in two-step facial cleansing Vegetable oils are a key component of the first stage of two-step facial cleansing, which aims to effectively remove impurities, makeup and excess sebum. Thanks to their chemical structure, they are able to dissolve fats, which makes them an effective agent in eliminating hydrophobic substances from the skin surface. Choosing the right oil is important, because some of them can be comedogenic and contribute to the formation of imperfections. Below we will discuss the properties and applications of selected vegetable oils used in cosmetics. Sunflower seed oil ( Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil ) is one of the most commonly used oils in facial cleansing cosmetics. It is characterized by a light consistency and a high content of linoleic acid (approx. 60%), which helps regulate sebum secretion and prevents pores from clogging. According to research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology , the use of sunflower oil can support the skin barrier function and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Its anti-inflammatory properties make it recommended for people with acne and problematic skin. Sweet almond oil ( Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil ) is rich in fatty acids, mainly oleic (approx. 62%) and linoleic (24%), as well as vitamins A and E. In cosmetology, it is valued for its soothing and moisturizing properties. Studies indicate that this oil can support skin regeneration and reduce irritation, making it a suitable choice for people with dry and sensitive skin. However, due to the higher content of oleic acid, it may be less beneficial for oily skin, as excessive use of this acid can lead to disruption of the lipid barrier and increased sebum production. Avocado oil ( Persea Gratissima Oil ) is one of the most nourishing oils used in cosmetics. It contains a large amount of oleic acid (approx. 50-70%), lecithin, phytosterols and vitamins A, D and E. Its intensive moisturizing effect makes it especially recommended for dry and mature skin. Studies show that avocado oil can support the healing of minor skin damage and strengthen its protective barrier. However, due to its thick consistency and potentially comedogenic properties, it is not recommended for people with skin prone to acne. Sesame oil ( Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil ) has antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. It is rich in fatty acids, mainly oleic (approx. 40%) and linoleic (approx. 45%), as well as vitamin E and lignans, which have strong antioxidant effects. Studies conducted on oily skin show that sesame oil can help regulate sebum production, making it a potentially beneficial choice for combination skin. Camellia oil ( Camellia Kissi Seed Oil ) is a light, quickly absorbed oil with a high content of fatty acids (mainly oleic and linoleic), vitamins and antioxidants. The literature emphasizes its regenerative and protective properties, which makes it suitable for dry and mature skin. Additionally, its light consistency means that it can be well tolerated by people with normal skin. Citrus oils ( Citrus spp. ), such as orange, lemon or grapefruit oil, have antibacterial and toning effects. They are rich in flavonoids and vitamin C, which helps to lighten discolorations and even out skin tone. However, their intensive action may cause irritation in people with sensitive skin. In addition, some citrus oils may have a phototoxic effect, so their use should be limited before exposure to the sun. In summary, choosing the right oil for a two-step facial cleanse should be tailored to your skin type and individual needs. People with oily and acne-prone skin should choose oils with a high linoleic acid content, such as sunflower or sesame oil, which help regulate sebum secretion. Dry and mature skin will benefit more from nourishing oils, such as avocado oil or camellia oil. Additionally, citrus oils can be a valuable addition to problem skin care, but their use requires caution due to potential irritation. A two-step facial cleanse with the right oils can effectively support the skin barrier, improve hydration and regulate sebum secretion, making it beneficial for a variety of skin types. However, the key aspect is the right choice of ingredients and avoiding potentially comedogenic oils that could contribute to aggravating skin problems. What is two-step facial cleansing? First step: Makeup remover oil To effectively cleanse your face, apply a few drops of oil to dry skin and gently massage it in with circular motions. The oil will dissolve makeup and sebum. Then wet your hands with water and continue massaging – the oil will turn into a milky emulsion that is easy to rinse off. Second step: Gentle foam or face wash gel After rinsing the oil, use a delicate foam or gel to remove any remaining impurities and oil residue. The moisturizing Gurdalina Japońska facial wash foam from Orientana is an excellent choice because it effectively cleanses the skin while taking care of its hydration and hydrolipid balance. You can also choose the Hello Daktyl facial wash gel . Two-step cleansing - benefits Two-step facial cleansing ensures thorough removal of all impurities that may accumulate on the skin during the day. The oil effectively dissolves greasy substances such as sebum and cosmetic residues, leaving the skin perfectly clean. It is worth emphasizing that hydrophobic substances, such as sebum, makeup or environmental pollutants, dissolve best in fats, because according to the chemical principle "like dissolves like", lipids in the oil effectively combine with lipids on the skin's surface. As a result, the skin remains cleansed without damaging its natural protective barrier. Two-step cleansing also helps maintain proper skin hydration. Using oil prevents excessive drying, which is a common effect of using aggressive cleansers. Additionally, it prepares the skin for the next stages of care, increasing the effectiveness of absorption of active substances contained in serums and creams. Benefits of Two-Step Facial Cleansing for Acne-Prone Skin More thorough pore cleansing Two-step cleansing allows for more effective removal of impurities than traditional washing with one product. The oil dissolves greasy dirt such as sebum, makeup or sunscreens, which often accumulate in pores and can lead to the formation of blackheads. Then, the water-based product thoroughly removes any remaining oil, sweat, dirt, and dead skin cells. This leaves your skin better cleansed and your pores less likely to become clogged. Reduced risk of new breakouts Regular but gentle cleansing helps maintain skin balance and prevents the build-up of acne-causing bacteria. Inadequate removal of makeup and sunscreen can contribute to the development of inflammatory lesions, so a two-step cleanse helps effectively reduce this problem. Reduces inflammation and irritation Two-step cleansing, if done gently and using mild products, reduces the risk of irritation. Unlike aggressive cleansing gels, which can dry out the skin and cause a defensive reaction in the form of overproduction of sebum, this method allows for maintaining the hydrolipid balance. This means that the skin is not excessively dry or irritated, which can lead to reduced inflammation. Moisturizing and protecting the skin barrier Oils used in the first stage of cleansing can help skin regenerate and strengthen its protective barrier. Properly selected oils, such as squalane or jojoba oil, help moisturize the skin and prevent it from dehydrating. This means that the skin does not feel the need to overproduce sebum, which can lead to less oiliness and fewer new breakouts. Better effectiveness of anti-acne care Thoroughly cleansed skin absorbs the active ingredients in toners, serums and anti-acne creams better. If pores are not clogged, active ingredients such as niacinamide, BHA acids or retinoids can work more effectively. This makes further care bring better results and helps reduce acne.
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AYURVEDIC TREATMENTS IN KERALA
Learn about Ayurvedic treatments in India with me. I invite you to Kerala . Did you know that Kerala is a state in southern India that is considered the capital of Ayurveda? For over 60 years, the communist party has been ruling Kerala without a break. Communism there is a bit different from the one we know from history because companies can develop freely and there is private property. However, there are not such great social inequalities as in other states of India. Kerala is also the state in India with the smallest number of illiterates (only 6% of the population), the highest level of health care, a significant number of Christians, huge fields, medicinal plants and promotion of a healthy lifestyle. Kerala is known for its centres where Ayurvedic treatments are carried out and we went to one of them to learn about their methods and treatments and to actually see what plants are used in them. WHAT AN AYURVEDIC CENTER LOOKS LIKE Ayurvedic centers in Kerala are places full of peace, harmony and closeness to nature. They are usually located in the surroundings of tropical vegetation, near a river, lake or on the shores of the Indian Ocean, conducive to deep relaxation and regeneration. The Ayurvedic center in Kerala that I visited had traditional architecture inspired by the Kerala style, with wooden structures, carved details and tiled roofs. Everyone had their own cottage with spacious interiors, decorated in natural colors, using wood and stone. Around the buildings stretched lush gardens full of coconut palms, banana trees, lotuses and medicinal herbs used in Ayurvedic therapy. The rooms had large windows to let in fresh air and natural light. My bungalow overlooked the garden. The interior was relaxing, with a bed draped in white, airy curtains and decorations limited to handmade carvings and traditional textiles. Ayurvedic Therapy Center The heart of the resort is the Ayurvedic clinic, where guests undergo individual consultations with an experienced Ayurvedic doctor (vaidya). On this basis, treatments, diets and herbal therapies are selected. As a reminder to blog readers, a short definition of Ayurveda is a system of Indian medicine based on natural principles. It deals with physical, mental and spiritual health. Those who use the principles of Ayurveda are usually vegetarians because one of the principles is not to harm animals. In the Ayurvedic center where I spent two weeks, it was not allowed to have leather clothing. Leather shoes or handbags are not welcome. Likewise, phones and computers - you can have them, but only in your room. You will not drink alcohol there or smoke a cigarette. Strictly forbidden because it is unhealthy and poisons the body, and the purpose of staying in such a center is complete cleansing. I chose a "light" center, i.e. only with external treatments such as massages, however, the most recommended are centers where panchakarma is practiced. These are "hardcore" cleansing treatments that should last more than 3 weeks to be carried out properly. Ayurvedic treatments - panchacarma Panchakarma is a traditional method of deep cleansing of the body used in Ayurveda, which aims to remove toxins and restore the balance between the three energies - doshas (Vata, Pitta, Kapha). It is an intensive detoxification process, which includes both preparation of the body and proper cleansing therapies and a period of regeneration. Panchakarma is not a single procedure, but consists of several stages, which Ayurvedic procedures must be carried out in the right order to be effective and safe. The first stage is Purvakarma , or preparing the body for deep cleansing. During this time, the patient is given specially selected herbal oils, which are intended to soften the toxins accumulated in the body and facilitate their removal. The key element of this phase is Snehana , or oiling the body, which can be done both internally - by consuming specific amounts of ghee or medicated oils, and externally - in the form of full-body massages (Abhyanga). The next step is Swedana , or Ayurvedic steam treatments, during which the patient is exposed to warm steam with the addition of herbs, which helps open the skin's pores and mobilize toxins for excretion. Once the body is properly prepared, the actual cleansing, or Pradhanakarma , begins. This stage includes five main cleansing procedures that are tailored to the individual health condition of the patient. Vamana is an emetic therapy, mainly used in people with excess Kapha dosha to remove excess mucus and toxins from the upper digestive tract. Virechana involves controlled laxation using natural herbal remedies, which helps cleanse the liver and intestines, especially in people with Pitta disorders. Basti , or therapeutic enemas with oils and herbal decoctions, are used to cleanse the intestines and restore the balance of the Vata dosha. Nasya is a therapy for cleansing the sinuses and upper respiratory tract through the application of oils or herbal preparations to the nose, which helps remove accumulated toxins and improves the functioning of the respiratory and nervous systems. The last procedure is Raktamokshana , or bloodletting therapy, used less frequently and mainly in cases of serious disorders related to excess toxins in the blood. After intensive cleansing, the body needs regeneration, which is why the last stage is Paschatkarma , or the period of convalescence. During this time, the patient goes on an easily digestible diet, takes herbal strengthening preparations and gradually returns to a normal lifestyle. The key role here is played by Rasayana , or rejuvenation therapy, which involves the use of special herbs and tonics that strengthen immunity and regenerate the body. Yoga exercises and meditation are also gradually introduced to enhance the effects of Panchakarma and maintain energy balance for longer. Panchakarma is a demanding but extremely effective cleansing and regeneration process that allows the body to return to its natural harmony. It is not only a therapy for the body, but also for the mind, as it helps release accumulated stress, improves clarity of thought and strengthens vital forces. To achieve the best results, it is recommended to conduct Panchakarma in an authentic Ayurvedic center under the supervision of experienced doctors who will select the appropriate procedures for the individual needs of the patient. I didn't decide to do such Ayurvedic treatments but I know people who have undergone them and were very satisfied. However, this requires more courage. As I mentioned earlier, my stay was more of a "sanatorium" stay. In a beautiful Ayurvedic center, the entire stay was carefully planned. The schedule of activities is established with the doctor, who conducts an interview when you check in at the center and determines what treatments are necessary. During the interview, the doctor will typically ask about your well-being, health problems, lifestyle, stress, check your pulse, tongue, and look into your eyes. He will also determine your dosha. What is a dosha? According to Ayurveda, a human being is made up of five elements: earth, water, fire, air and space. They create three energy forces – doshas called vata, pitta and kapha. These doshas should be in balance. If one predominates, it should be balanced with lifestyle, exercise, diet and ultimately natural medicine. This imbalance causes poor well-being and disease. After meeting with the doctor, we get a plan, we also know what we can eat because the menu at the center is determined for our dosha. We don't wear our own clothes here. Everyone has their own white loose-fitting outfit, which they can change for a clean one every day if they want. The day begins early in the morning, at 6:00 with outdoor yoga. After a healthy breakfast, we go to treatments, which last with breaks for lunch and rest all day, and end with evening yoga and dinner. All meals are vegetarian. Ayurvedic treatments Ayurvedic massages and treatments cover the entire body, so the therapist works from head to toe, taking care of energy balance and physical and mental health. Each massage begins with a head massage, which helps with relaxation and prepares the body for further therapeutic action. Ayurvedic sauna - preparation for massage To increase the effectiveness of massages, it is often recommended to use an Ayurvedic sauna. It is completely different from the traditional saunas known in Europe. Placed in a massage room, it takes the form of a wooden box, in which the patient sits on a stool, and their head remains outside. The therapist turns on steam, which gently heats the body and opens the pores, helping to eliminate toxins. The effect is extremely relaxing and prepares the skin for better absorption of oils and herbs used in subsequent treatments. Types of Ayurvedic Treatments Udwarthanam This is an intensive full-body massage performed using plant powders. The body is sprinkled with a mixture of herbs with cleansing and circulation-stimulating properties. The therapist performs deep, circular movements that help remove excess fat, improve metabolism and support the elimination of toxins from the body. Elakhiz This is a massage performed using special stamps filled with fresh leaves of medicinal plants. The herbs are previously ground and mixed with oil to extract their healing properties. This massage has an analgesic effect, improves blood circulation and reduces muscle tension. Podikizhi This is a treatment using hot stamps filled with a mixture of sesame oil and plant extracts. The main goal of the massage is to intensively warm up the body, which leads to deep relaxation, muscle relaxation and sweating out accumulated toxins. The treatment is especially recommended for people suffering from joint pain and rheumatic problems. Njavarakizhi The massage is performed using stamps with Kerala rice, oil and herbal extracts. After stamping, the rice paste remaining on the skin is massaged into the body using coconut palm leaves. This treatment perfectly nourishes the skin, moisturizes and regenerates tissues, and also has a rejuvenating effect. Pizhichil This is one of the most luxurious and relaxing Ayurvedic massages. It is performed with warm oil, which is gently poured onto the body and distributed by two therapists with synchronized movements. The oil flows on a special wooden table with grooves that allow it to be recovered and further used during the massage. Pizhichil improves circulation, strengthens the nervous system and helps in the treatment of chronic stress and fatigue. Shirodhara One of the most characteristic Ayurvedic treatments. It consists of rhythmically pouring warm oil on the forehead, which affects the so-called "third eye". Shirodhara helps reduce stress, improves concentration, supports mental balance and has a soothing effect on the nervous system. It is especially recommended for people suffering from insomnia, migraines and chronic tension. We are on our way This is a therapy for cleansing the sinuses and respiratory system. During the procedure, a medicinal oil with a mixture of herbs is poured into the patient's nose, which helps to clear the respiratory tract, relieve chronic headaches and reduce the frequency of migraines. Nasyam is also an effective method for improving the condition of facial skin and eyesight. Each of these treatments has its own unique properties and health benefits, and their selection is tailored to the individual needs of the patient. Ayurvedic therapies help restore the harmony of body and mind, supporting regeneration and long-term well-being. I tried all the treatments except the last one. They all renewed me incredibly, and in combination with a properly selected diet, they definitely gave a detoxifying and relaxing effect. At the center I also had breathing exercises called pranayama because in Ayurveda and in life breathing is very important, and we usually forget about it or do not realize it. Everyone can practice such exercises in the privacy of their home or can learn them in Poland in good yoga schools.
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Tested on animals? We test natural cosmetics. Learn the facts, myths, and law
More and more people are opting for natural cosmetics, counting on their safety, gentleness to the skin and lower impact on the environment. However, with the growing popularity of such products, an important question arises: are natural cosmetics tested on animals? For many consumers today, ethical issues are as important as the composition of the product or its effectiveness. Although it might seem that a natural composition automatically means no animal testing, the reality is more complex. Legal regulations vary from country to country, and the practices of individual companies can be ambiguous. In this article, we will explain exactly what animal testing of cosmetics means, what the legal situation is in the European Union and around the world, and how to consciously choose products that are cruelty free. What does "tested on animals" mean? To understand whether natural cosmetics are tested on animals, you need to start by explaining the term itself. "Animal testing" does not always mean the same thing, and the scope of the tests and their purpose can vary significantly. Definition of Animal Testing in the Context of Cosmetics Animal testing is the practice of conducting laboratory studies in which animals are used to assess the safety, effectiveness, or properties of a cosmetic or its ingredients. These tests may include: skin irritation (irritability, contact toxicity), eye irritation, sensitizing effect (sensitization), general and chronic toxicity, reproductive toxicity, carcinogenicity. In cosmetology, these were most often acute irritation tests ( Draize test on rabbits) or lethal dose tests ( LD50 ) - currently considered controversial and unethical. Why were cosmetics once tested on animals? Historically, animal testing was intended to protect consumer health. Until the 1980s, there were no advanced in vitro testing models, and many potential cosmetic substances were introduced to the market without sufficient toxicological data. Animal testing allowed for: assessment of the risk of contact with skin and mucous membranes, detection of potential allergic reactions, assessment of the toxic risk following accidental ingestion of the product. Why is animal testing controversial? Currently, the most frequently raised arguments against: Ethical: suffering and death of laboratory animals (mice, rats, rabbits, guinea pigs). Scientific: limited usefulness of results (biological differences between species). Social: growing consumer awareness and societal pressure for ethical testing. According to data from the European Commission (2020), as many as 43% of Europeans declare that they avoid purchasing cosmetics tested on animals. Which animals were used most often? According to reports from ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) and Humane Society International, the most common substances used in cosmetic tests were: Species Test Purpose Rabbits Skin and eye irritation Guinea pigs Allergy tests Mice Carcinogenicity and mutagenicity studies Rats Toxicological studies, LD50 Are there alternatives to animal testing? Yes – and this is a key breakthrough in recent years. Currently, many alternative research methods ( Alternative Methods to Animal Testing – NAMs, New Approach Methodologies ) are being developed in cosmetology, including: In vitro studies: tests on human skin cells and tissues (reconstructed skin models: EpiDerm™, SkinEthic™). Computer models (in silico): predicting the effects of substances based on algorithms, big data and databases. Ex vivo studies: studies on skin from donors (e.g. after plastic surgery). Non-animal genotoxicity tests: e.g. Ames test. Importantly, the OECD and ECVAM (European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods) approve such methods as equivalent in terms of reliability. Are natural cosmetics tested on animals? Natural ≠ cruelty free – the basic consumer misunderstanding Many consumers still believe that if a cosmetic is natural , it has not been tested on animals. Unfortunately, it is not that simple. The terms "natural" and "not tested on animals" refer to two different aspects of the product: the composition and the testing process. A natural cosmetic means that its production uses raw materials of plant, mineral or biotechnological origin, often minimally processed. Cruelty free, on the other hand, refers to the ethics of safety testing - both of the finished cosmetic and its ingredients. In practice, this means that you can find natural cosmetics on the market that, despite their origin, have been tested on animals at various stages – especially if a given company sells them globally and is subject to various legal regulations. Natural resources may also be subject to safety testing. It is worth realizing that the mere fact that a raw material is of natural origin does not exempt manufacturers from the obligation to assess its safety. Each cosmetic ingredient – both synthetic and natural – must be subjected to an assessment of toxicology, phototoxicity, irritation, sensitization, etc. In the past, many plant extracts (such as essential oils, fruit extracts, hydrolates) were tested on animals to assess the risk of their use in humans. Data from such studies often constitute the so-called historical toxicological data on which the modern safety assessment is based. Therefore, even if a given raw material is not currently tested on animals, there may be documentation from years ago in which such tests were performed. The main difference: company policy and cruelty free declaration The position of a given brand and the entire supply chain is crucial. Companies that declare a cruelty-free policy implement rigorous rules, including: no animal testing at any stage of production, cooperation only with raw material suppliers who do not carry out such tests, withdrawal from markets where animal testing is mandatory (e.g. China until recently). In the case of natural companies, raw material suppliers can be an additional problem – some global corporations selling extracts and plant oils have conducted toxicological studies on animals for the purposes of regulations in other industries (e.g. REACH – Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals in the EU). This data is sometimes made available to manufacturers of natural cosmetics as part of mandatory safety documentation (Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment Reports – CPSR). Law in the European Union and in the world In the European Union, since 2013, there has been a total ban on testing cosmetics and cosmetic ingredients on animals (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009). This applies to both testing finished products and raw materials used exclusively for cosmetic purposes. But even in the EU, the situation is not always completely transparent. Why? Because some cosmetic ingredients have cross-sectoral functions, such as in the pharmaceutical, chemical or agricultural industries, where regulations may require additional safety testing, sometimes on animals. Data from such testing can then be used in the cosmetic ingredient dossier, even if the cosmetic itself remains “animal testing compliant” for the purposes of cosmetics law. The European Union - the most restrictive system in the world The European Union is currently considered the world leader in animal protection in cosmetics. The key legal act here is the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products , in force since 11 July 2013. Under it: a total ban on testing cosmetics on animals was introduced, animal testing has been banned for both finished products and individual cosmetic ingredients, the sale of cosmetics on the EU market that have been tested on animals outside the EU is prohibited. This means that no cosmetic approved for sale in the EU may be tested on animals, either in Europe or outside of it – even if the manufacturer did not carry out the tests itself but used the results of laboratory tests carried out in another country. Tests required by other regulations: the REACH loophole In practice, however, there is a legal loophole that causes confusion among consumers. This is the European REACH regulation (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals), which concerns the safety of all chemical substances, not just cosmetics. Some of the ingredients used in natural cosmetics also have industrial or pharmaceutical functions (e.g. preservatives, stabilizers, solvents, active substances). In such cases, manufacturers are sometimes required to provide additional toxicological data, which cannot always be obtained solely from alternative studies. In some cases, data from historical animal studies conducted before 2013 are still acceptable. Therefore, some plant or semi-synthetic ingredients, even though they are legal in natural cosmetics and the cosmetics themselves comply with the EU ban, may have in their dossiers data from previous animal tests conducted, for example, by suppliers of chemical raw materials. Position of the European Commission and the European Court of Justice In 2021, the European Citizens' Initiative "Save Cruelty Free Cosmetics" attempted to completely close the loopholes of REACH. In response, the European Commission confirmed that: "The basic principle remains the same - no new animal tests are required to obtain authorisation to sell a cosmetic in the EU." However, it was pointed out at the same time that toxicological tests resulting from REACH concern the safety of workers and the environment in the production of chemicals, not the safety of consumers of cosmetics, hence additional data are sometimes allowed. Global Sales of Natural Cosmetics – China’s Problem Many natural cosmetics manufacturers sell globally, which creates additional complications in the context of animal testing. Until recently, one of the biggest problems was mainland China, where the law required mandatory animal testing of cosmetics before they were allowed to be sold in stores. The situation partially changed in May 2021, when the China Market Supervision Administration (NMPA) introduced the possibility of waiving animal testing for some products (so-called general cosmetics ), provided that very strict documentation requirements are met and special safety certificates are obtained. However, not all product categories and not all brands can benefit from this exemption. Since May 1, 2021, a significant change has been introduced - in the case of non-functional cosmetics (so-called "general cosmetics"), e.g. creams, gels, balms or shampoos, animal testing can be replaced by safety documentation and appropriate certificates. However, for functional products (e.g. sunscreen, whitening, anti-acne cosmetics) there are still additional requirements, and the registration process is still not fully transparent. For many natural brands, this still means having to choose: a presence on the Chinese market or a complete cruelty-free policy. That is why some large corporations – even though they offer natural cosmetics lines – still participate in systems in which animal testing is carried out to meet local requirements. USA - No nationwide ban, slow change For many years, the United States lacked a federal ban on animal testing for cosmetics. It wasn't until December 2022 that the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) was signed into law, which introduced a broad reform of cosmetics regulation. While MoCRA does not impose a complete ban on animal testing at the federal level, a growing number of states (California, Nevada, Illinois, Maine, Hawaii, Virginia, Maryland) have introduced local bans on the sale of products tested on animals. In the US, however, there is still no uniform cruelty-free obligation across the entire territory of the country – the legal situation varies by state. Australia, Brazil, Canada and other countries Australia — Since July 2020, there has been a ban on the use of data from new animal tests for cosmetic ingredients. Brazil — A ban on testing finished cosmetics on animals was approved in 2023. Canada — Animal testing ban for cosmetics and their ingredients effective 2023. South Korea and Japan – no full ban; however, some brands voluntarily implement cruelty-free policies. The European Union remains the most stringent market in terms of animal protection in cosmetics. Outside the EU, the situation is more complex and requires consumers to analyze the policies of a specific brand. Practical examples: brands and animal testing Example 1: Brand X declares that its cosmetics are natural and cruelty free, and the products are available only in the EU and the USA - this means full compliance with the cruelty free principles. Example 2: Brand Y produces cosmetics but sells them in drugstore chains in mainland China — in which case it may be forced to participate in animal testing, even if it does not conduct it itself. Brands often use intermediary companies to whom they commission the tests. Example 3: The Z brand uses plant-based raw materials obtained from large chemical companies that have conducted toxicological tests of their raw materials for REACH or pharmaceutical purposes – the documentation may contain data from animal testing from years ago. Example 4: The Ż brand produces cosmetics within a large corporation, e.g. food-cosmetics or pharmaceutical-food. Ingredients can be tested within pharmaceuticals or food products. Natural, vegan cosmetics and animal testing – the differences Three different concepts that are often confused with each other In conversations about the ethics of cosmetics production, there is often a false assumption that natural, vegan, and cruelty-free cosmetics are synonyms. In fact, each of these terms refers to completely different product features and does not automatically mean the others. Natural cosmetics — refers to the composition, i.e. the use of ingredients of natural origin: plant, mineral, biotechnological. Vegan cosmetics – means that the product does not contain ingredients of animal origin or their derivatives. Cruelty free cosmetics – means that the product and its ingredients have not been tested on animals at any stage of production. In practice, this means that it is possible for a cosmetic to: is natural, but contains ingredients of animal origin (e.g. beeswax, lanolin, goat's milk), is vegan, but has been tested on animals, is cruelty free, but contains both synthetic and natural ingredients. Natural Cosmetics - Definition and Scope The concept of "natural cosmetic" is not clearly defined in the cosmetics law (Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 does not define naturalness). Therefore, there are various certification standards on the market (e.g. COSMOS, NATRUE), which specify: minimal share of natural and organic ingredients, degree of processing of raw materials, restrictions on some preservatives or emulsifiers. The key point is that the naturalness of the composition itself says nothing about the methods used to test the safety of the product. Example: Aloe vera extract (Aloe barbadensis) is a natural ingredient, but the supplier may have toxicological data from before 2013, which includes animal testing. A cosmetic containing aloe vera itself may comply with the EU testing ban, but may not necessarily meet cruelty-free standards in the strict sense. Vegan cosmetics - composition free from animal raw materials A vegan cosmetic means that none of its ingredients come from animals or are derived from their metabolic products. This includes, among others: collagen, elastin (usually obtained from fish or cattle), keratin (from wool, horns, hooves), beeswax (cera alba), lanolin (from sheep wool), milk, honey, eggs, silk. However, a vegan product can still come from a manufacturer that allows animal testing. Vegan ingredients alone do not automatically mean cruelty-free status. Example: Brand X offers a vegan moisturizer without animal ingredients but sells it in China - the product is vegan but not necessarily cruelty free. Cruelty-free cosmetics - complete elimination of animal testing The concept of cruelty free is related solely to safety testing methods. Cruelty free cosmetic: has not been tested on animals at any stage of production and distribution, its raw materials have also not been tested on animals on behalf of the manufacturer, the manufacturer does not sell in countries requiring mandatory animal testing (or provides documentation exempting from testing where possible). Importantly, a cruelty-free cosmetic does not have to be natural or vegan. It can contain both synthetic ingredients and animal ingredients (if they were not the result of animal suffering, e.g. lanolin from wool extraction). Why are these terms confused? The main cause of the confusion is the marketing activities of cosmetic brands, which often use slogans such as: "natural = vegan = ethical = cruelty free". The lack of uniform legal regulations regarding the definitions of these concepts additionally makes it difficult for consumers to properly understand the differences. Humane Society International’s 2022 consumer research shows that: 68% of consumers wrongly assume that natural cosmetics are not tested on animals, 55% believe that vegan products automatically meet cruelty free standards, only 29% consciously distinguish between both concepts. Examples for full understanding Cosmetic Natural? Vegan? Cruelty free? Cream with beeswax YES NO YES (if not tested) Synthetic serum without animal ingredients NO YES YES (if not tested) Honey face mask sold in China YES NO NO Aloe vera gel from old toxicology documentation YES YES YES (in EU), doubtful globally Does Orientana test or has tested cosmetics on animals? The Orientana brand, although founded fourteen years ago, has been guided by the principle of complete ethics in the production of natural cosmetics from the very beginning. It has never tested its products on animals or used raw materials that were tested in a way that was harmful to animals. Moreover, Orientana also avoids animal-derived ingredients whose acquisition would involve the death or suffering of animals. Thanks to this, consumers can be sure that by choosing Orientana products, they support a brand that focuses on ethics, nature and respect for all beings. Why is animal testing still being talked about when it is banned? A topic that never ends Despite the EU’s total ban on animal testing for cosmetics, the topic still stirs up a lot of emotion and doubt among consumers and the cosmetics industry alike. The reasons are complex and stem from real issues that still exist on a global scale – from complex supply chains to regulatory inconsistency. Global Supply Chain Issues Modern cosmetics production, even natural cosmetics, is based on a very extensive, international network of raw material suppliers. Even a small moisturising cream can contain 20–40 different ingredients, sourced from suppliers on several continents. Often, one cosmetics company does not produce raw materials on its own, but buys ready-made extracts, oils, emollients, preservatives or thickeners from global chemical and biotechnology concerns. The problem is that some of these companies — especially large industrial suppliers — have conducted or continue to conduct toxicological testing on animals not only for cosmetics, but also for: chemical industry, pharmaceutical, food, agrochemical. According to data from the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), approximately 70% of substances registered under REACH also have toxicological data from animal testing carried out in the past or for the needs of other industrial sectors. A manufacturer of natural cosmetics, even if it does not conduct animal testing itself, may use raw material documentation based on such data, which introduces ethical and communication controversies. Lack of transparency among some manufacturers Not all cosmetics brands fully disclose their ethical policies and testing practices. Some companies use imprecise statements such as: "We do not test finished products on animals" "We only test when required by law" "The product has been tested in accordance with EU regulations" Such wording allows companies to formally comply with EU law but does not inform consumers about the full scope of toxicological data, which often includes older animal tests performed by suppliers. In a 2023 study by Cruelty Free International , conducted on 70 brands operating in Europe and the US, as many as 41% of companies were unable to precisely determine whether all raw materials in their products were free from data obtained from animal testing in other sectors. Different legal regulations outside the EU Although the European Union banned animal testing in cosmetics in 2013, many other countries still have inconsistent or much more lenient regulations. As a result: companies producing for global markets must adapt documentation to various regulations; for some countries (e.g. in Asia or the Middle East) animal testing is still mandatory or recommended; some countries formally abolish tests, but in practice require documents that are very difficult to obtain using fully alternative methods. For example, Japan and South Korea still lack a nationwide ban on animal testing for all cosmetics categories, although some brands in these countries voluntarily implement cruelty-free policies. In China , despite the 2021 reform, many products are still subject to mandatory safety testing, especially in the so-called "functional cosmetics" category (whitening creams, UV filters, medicinal products). Testing Chemical Ingredients for Non-Cosmetic Purposes One of the most difficult ethical issues in natural cosmetics is testing conducted for the needs of other industries – especially in terms of chemical and environmental law. In the EU, the main problem is the aforementioned REACH system (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) . In the case of some cosmetic ingredients, which are also used in: detergent production, fertilizers, plastics, pharmaceuticals, Regulatory authorities may request additional toxicological data, which is sometimes obtained from animal studies. The European Chemicals Agency report from 2021 indicates that: "About 35% of substances registered under REACH required reproductive, developmental or genotoxic toxicity tests on animals to fully complete the industrial dossier." For natural cosmetics manufacturers, this means that not all raw material data included in their CPSRs is completely free from animal testing – even though the cosmetics themselves comply with the EU ban. Expert Summary Why doesn’t the topic of animal testing in natural cosmetics go away? Because even with a complete ban on testing ready-made cosmetics: raw material documentation is often based on older animal studies, Global regulations are still not consistent, Supply chains are multi-level and opaque, Much testing is done for other industries. That is why conscious brand communication, full transparency of documentation and education of consumers, who are often unaware of the complexity of the problem, are so important. Conscious choice of natural cosmetics Choosing natural cosmetics is an important step towards more conscious and skin-friendly care. Ingredients of plant, mineral or biotechnological origin offer a number of benefits - they are mild, often better tolerated by sensitive skin and support the balance of the microbiome. However, the naturalness of the composition is only one of many elements of ethical and responsible cosmetic production. Throughout the product development process, safety testing methods and the sources of toxicological data are equally important. It is at this stage that most misunderstandings and ethically difficult decisions occur. Animal Testing – A Topic That Won't Go Away Although the European Union has had a formal ban on testing cosmetics on animals since 2013, the problem still exists in a broader, global context: Global supply chains mean that many cosmetic raw materials used in natural formulas have a history of past toxicological testing on animals – often for REACH, pharmaceutical, industrial chemistry or environmental purposes. The lack of full transparency on the part of some manufacturers makes it even more difficult for consumers to assess to what extent a given brand actually complies with cruelty-free principles at every stage of production. Many countries outside the EU still have less stringent regulations, notably in China, Japan, South Korea and the Middle East. As a result, even a natural, organic cosmetic may have traces of past animal testing in its documentation – and this does not always mean that the manufacturer is consciously violating ethical principles. It is often the result of applicable chemical law or opaque environmental safety standards. Natural, vegan and cruelty free - precise analysis For an informed consumer, it is crucial to separate several concepts: Naturalness — refers to composition, not testing methods. Vegan — means no animal ingredients, but says nothing about testing. Cruelty free — refers exclusively to research policy and the presence of animal testing. Full ethics in cosmetics is only the sum of these three elements. Only then do we talk about cosmetics that are not only natural, but also vegan and free from animal suffering at every stage of production and research. How to make informed purchasing decisions? A conscious consumer who wants to make responsible choices should pay attention to several key issues: Brand transparency — does the manufacturer clearly communicate its cruelty-free policy, publish information about suppliers and the sales market? International Sales – Does the company sell in countries where animal testing is still required (e.g. mainland China)? Independent certifications – although we haven’t covered them in detail in this post, they can be an additional confirmation of ethical production. Awareness of global regulations – it is worth understanding the legal differences between the EU and other markets. Patience in the face of the complexity of the problem - the world of cosmetics, especially natural cosmetics, is an area of many compromises between safety, law and ethics. Key Expert Conclusion Naturalness does not automatically mean ethics. Ethical cosmetics require not only good composition, but also full transparency in terms of research, suppliers and sales markets. Only the sum of these elements allows us to talk about a responsible brand. Scientific sources for this chapter (you can refer to them for the purposes of the blog text): OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals, 2021 EU Reference Laboratory for alternatives to animal testing (EURL ECVAM), 2020 European Commission. Special Eurobarometer 442 (Attitudes towards Animal Welfare), 2020 Humane Society International, 2021 report Humane Society International, 2022 Global Consumer Survey Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 COSMOS Standard AISBL NATRUE International Standard ANNA WASILEWSKA - Creator and owner of the Orientana brand
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Marionette wrinkles – causes, prevention and ways to reduce them
Marionette lines, also known as marionette folds, are characteristic vertical lines running from the corners of the mouth towards the chin. Their name comes from their resemblance to the lines seen on the faces of marionette dolls with movable jaws. The appearance of these wrinkles is a natural effect of the skin aging process, but their presence can significantly affect the aesthetics of the face. The presence of marionette lines affects the overall expression of the face, often giving it a sad, tired or stern look. Even in a state of rest, without expressing specific emotions, a face with pronounced marionette lines can appear depressed or unhappy. This state of affairs can lead to misunderstandings in nonverbal communication and affect the self-esteem and self-confidence of the individual. In addition, marionette lines can disrupt the harmony and proportions of the face, affecting its aesthetics. Their presence can cause the corners of the mouth to droop, which further increases the impression of sadness. As these lines deepen, the lower part of the face can appear heavier, affecting the perception of a person's age and vitality. Understanding the nature of marionette lines and their impact on facial appearance is crucial to developing effective preventive and therapeutic strategies to maintain a youthful and harmonious appearance. Read the text and see what care solution we have for you. What are marionette wrinkles? Marionette wrinkles, also known as marionette lines, are vertical lines of skin that run from the corners of the mouth toward the chin. Their name comes from their resemblance to the lines seen on the faces of puppets with movable jaws. The appearance of these wrinkles can give the face a sad or tired look, affecting the perception of emotions and the overall aesthetic appearance. Marionette lines are the result of natural skin aging processes, such as loss of collagen and elastin, which leads to sagging and sagging skin. Genetics, lifestyle, and exposure to UV radiation can all accelerate their formation. People with round faces, without prominent cheekbones, are more likely to develop these lines, while people with triangular faces with high cheekbones are less likely to develop them. Understanding the mechanisms behind marionette lines and their impact on facial aesthetics is crucial to developing effective preventive and therapeutic methods aimed at maintaining a youthful and harmonious appearance. Marionette wrinkles - Causes of formation Marionette lines, also known as marionette folds, are vertical lines that run from the corners of your mouth toward your chin. They are caused by a number of factors, both internal and external. Here are the main causes of their formation: Natural skin aging processes As we age, the skin loses its natural elasticity and firmness. Regenerative processes slow down and the ability to self-renew decreases. The production of new skin cells decreases, which leads to its thinning and increased susceptibility to the formation of wrinkles, including marionette lines. Loss of collagen and elastin Collagen and elastin are proteins responsible for the structure and elasticity of the skin. Their production decreases with age, which results in a loss of firmness and the appearance of sagging. A deficiency in these key ingredients makes the skin less resistant to gravity, which promotes the formation of marionette wrinkles. Gravity and changes in facial structure Gravity causes the facial tissues to gradually sag. As the volume of the adipose tissue decreases and the facial muscles weaken, the skin shifts downward, leading to the formation of furrows running from the corners of the mouth towards the chin. Genetic factors Genetic predispositions play a significant role in the skin aging process. People with a family history of early marionette lines are at increased risk of developing them. Genes affect the rate of collagen degradation, skin elasticity, and the overall condition of tissues. Lifestyle Marionette wrinkles also depend on our lifestyle. Improper nutrition, poor in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, accelerates the skin's aging processes. Lack of appropriate nutrients weakens the skin's structure, making it more susceptible to wrinkles. Smoking is a major contributor to the development of these wrinkles. The nicotine and other toxins in cigarette smoke cause blood vessels to narrow, which limits the flow of oxygen and nutrients to the skin. Smoking accelerates the degradation of collagen and elastin, which contributes to the development of wrinkles. UV radiation damages collagen and elastin fibers, leading to skin photoaging. Lack of sun protection contributes to the premature appearance of wrinkles, including marionette lines. Dehydrated skin loses elasticity and becomes more prone to wrinkles. Regular moisturising helps maintain its elasticity and delays the aging process. Facial expressions - how daily habits affect the formation of these wrinkles Everyday facial movements, such as smiling, frowning, or squinting, lead to the formation of facial lines. Over time, as the skin loses elasticity, these dynamic lines develop into permanent furrows. Frequent grimacing, especially when associated with negative emotions, can contribute to the deepening of marionette lines. Understanding these factors allows you to implement appropriate preventive and care actions aimed at delaying the appearance of marionette wrinkles and maintaining a healthy and youthful appearance of the skin. Marionette Wrinkles - How to Prevent Preventing marionette wrinkles, the vertical lines that run from the corners of your mouth to your chin, requires a comprehensive approach that includes proper skin care, a healthy lifestyle, and regular facial exercises. Here are some specific recommendations: Proper skin care Healthy, radiant skin requires systematic care and proper habits. Regular moisturising, using effective active ingredients, a well-balanced diet and protection from UV radiation are key elements that help to maintain the youthful appearance of the skin for longer. Moisturizing Proper skin hydration is one of the most important steps in skin care. Regular use of moisturizing creams supports the skin's protective barrier, helps retain water in the epidermis and increases its elasticity. Well-hydrated skin is more resistant to wrinkles and loss of firmness. Anti-wrinkle creams Incorporating anti-wrinkle creams with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, retinol or peptides into your daily skin care routine can significantly improve the condition of your skin. Hyaluronic acid provides intense hydration, retinol stimulates cell renewal and smoothes fine lines, and peptides support collagen synthesis, improving skin firmness. Diet to support skin elasticity A healthy diet is key to beautiful and firm skin. The right nutrients can support its structure, slow down the aging process and protect against harmful external factors. Collagen Collagen is the primary protein that builds the skin, giving it elasticity and firmness. Its natural production decreases with age, so it is worth providing it to the body through diet. Eating foods rich in collagen, such as bone broth, fish, or eggs , as well as using supplements can help maintain a youthful appearance of the skin. Vitamins – a protective shield for the skin Vitamins A, C and E play a key role in protecting the skin from oxidative stress and supporting its regeneration. Vitamin A (found in carrots, spinach, sweet potatoes) helps rebuild the epidermis. Vitamin C (found in citrus fruits, peppers, berries) supports collagen production and has antioxidant properties. Vitamin E (contained in nuts, almonds, olive oil) moisturizes and strengthens the skin's protective barrier. Healthy fats for firm skin Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids are essential for maintaining skin hydration and elasticity. They can be found in fish (salmon, mackerel), walnuts, avocados, and chia and flax seeds . Their regular consumption helps skin regeneration and helps fight dryness and premature aging. UV protection The sun is one of the main factors that accelerate skin aging. Excessive exposure to UV radiation leads to collagen loss, discoloration, and deep wrinkles. Creams with SPF filter - daily protection To effectively protect your skin from photoaging, it is worth using creams with an SPF filter every day, regardless of the season. Regular use of cosmetics with a high sun protection factor (SPF 30 or 50) helps reduce the risk of wrinkles and maintain a healthy appearance of the skin for longer. A healthy lifestyle – the key to youthful skin Maintaining healthy skin does not only depend on the cosmetics used. Everyday habits have a huge impact on its condition and can accelerate or delay the aging process. Avoiding stimulants Smoking and excessive alcohol consumption have a negative impact on the skin. The substances contained in cigarette smoke damage collagen and elastin fibers, which leads to loss of firmness and the formation of wrinkles. Alcohol, on the other hand, dehydrates the body, which results in dry skin and a tired appearance. Limiting or completely eliminating these stimulants can significantly improve the condition of the skin, giving it a healthier and more radiant appearance. Hydration of the body Proper skin hydration from the inside is just as important as using creams. Drinking at least 1.5–2 liters of water a day helps maintain skin elasticity, improves its tone and supports natural regeneration processes. It is also good practice to consume drinks rich in antioxidants, such as green tea or lemon water, which additionally support the fight against oxidative stress and skin aging. Facial massages and facial exercises Regular exercise and facial massages can improve the condition of the skin and prevent the formation of marionette wrinkles. They make the facial muscles tighter and the skin better oxygenated and nourished. Facial Yoga – Natural Facelift Facial yoga is a set of exercises that strengthen facial muscles, improve blood circulation and skin elasticity. Examples of exercises include: Puffing out your cheeks and slowly moving air from one side to the other. Lifting the corners of the mouth and holding this position for a few seconds, which strengthens the muscles around the mouth. Gently lift the eyebrows to stimulate the forehead and prevent wrinkles. Performing these exercises regularly can help tighten your skin naturally and delay the formation of wrinkles. Facial massages – a way to improve circulation Gentle skin massages, especially around the mouth and chin, can significantly improve blood flow and oxygenation of tissues. Massage: Stimulates circulation, which supports the skin's natural regenerative processes. Facilitates the absorption of active ingredients from cosmetics. Relaxes facial muscles, which helps prevent tension that leads to wrinkles. You can use tanned fingers, a jade roller or a gua sha stone for the massage, which will additionally support lymphatic drainage and improve facial contour. How to reduce existing marionette wrinkles? There are many methods for reducing marionette wrinkles, from home care to professional aesthetic medicine treatments. The choice of the right technique depends on the severity of the wrinkles and the individual needs of the skin. Regular use of moisturizing and regenerating cosmetics, such as hyaluronic acid, retinol or peptides, can help improve the condition of the skin. On the other hand, treatments such as fillers, botox, laser therapy or lifting threads provide quick and visible effects. The best results can be achieved by combining home care with professional treatments, tailored to the individual needs of the skin. Before making a decision, it is worth consulting a specialist who will select the most effective solution for a specific case. Cosmetics and home care Regular skin care can help reduce marionette lines and improve skin firmness. Key active ingredients to include in your daily skin care routine include: Hyaluronic acid – intensively moisturizes the skin, improves its firmness and fills fine lines. Retinol – stimulates collagen production, smoothes marionette wrinkles and improves skin elasticity. Peptides – support skin regeneration and help rebuild it, reducing the visibility of wrinkles. Regular use of lifting cosmetics can help reduce wrinkles and improve the oval of the face. It is worth paying attention to the Reishi serum with Orientana peptides, which was developed specifically to reduce marionette lines. Cosmetic treatments and aesthetic medicine For those who want to achieve more spectacular results, professional aesthetic medicine treatments are available. Fillers – hyaluronic acid One of the most popular solutions for marionette wrinkles are hyaluronic acid -based fillers. This substance is injected into the area of the wrinkles, which allows them to be filled, smoothed and improve skin tension . The effects of the treatment are visible immediately and can last for several months, depending on the type of preparation used. Botox – botulinum toxin Botox injections can be an effective method of reducing muscle tension in the area of marionette lines. Botulinum toxin causes the muscles to relax , which leads to smoothing of the skin and reducing the visibility of the lines. The effects of the treatment usually last for about 3-6 months. Laser treatments and radiofrequency (RF) Technologies such as fractional CO₂ laser or microneedle radiofrequency (RF) can effectively stimulate the skin to produce new collagen. They improve skin firmness, density and reduce marionette lines , making marionette lines less visible. These treatments require a series of repetitions, but the effects are long-lasting. Lifting threads – mechanical lifting of the skin The introduction of lifting threads under the skin is a procedure that allows for mechanical lifting and tightening of the skin . As a result, marionette lines are smoothed out and the contour of the face becomes more pronounced. The effects of thread lifting can last for up to 1.5–2 years. Marionette wrinkles - Home remedies for reducing wrinkles Marionette wrinkles are a problem that can be combated not only through aesthetic medicine treatments, but also through natural skin care methods. Regular use of homemade masks, natural oils and massage techniques can effectively support skin regeneration, improve its elasticity and delay the aging process. Homemade masks and oils - natural skin care Natural ingredients, such as plant oils and nutrient-based masks, can moisturize, nourish, and support skin regeneration . They make the skin firmer and more radiant, and help reduce marionette wrinkles. Natural oils Rose oil – has a soothing effect, supports skin repair processes and helps reduce fine wrinkles. Sesame oil – rich in vitamin E and fatty acids, intensively moisturizes the skin, improves its elasticity and protects against free radicals. Homemade masks for wrinkles marionette Avocado and honey mask – perfectly moisturizes and nourishes the skin, supporting its regeneration. Yogurt and turmeric mask – has a brightening and smoothing effect, improving skin tone. Egg white mask – has tightening and lifting properties, helping to firm the skin. Regular use of natural oils and masks can help improve the appearance of your skin and reduce existing wrinkles. Facial massage and lifting techniques - a natural way to firm skin Facial massage and facial exercises are excellent methods to support the reduction of marionette wrinkles. They improve blood circulation, oxygenate skin cells and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin , which are responsible for skin firmness. Benefits of facial massage It improves microcirculation , which makes the skin better oxygenated and nourished. It helps relax tense muscles that can deepen marionette lines. Supports lymphatic drainage , reducing puffiness and improving facial contour. Massage and facelift techniques Hand massage – gentle, circular movements along the wrinkle lines help smooth the skin and improve its firmness. Facial rollers (jade, quartz) – help cool and reduce swelling while stimulating the skin to regenerate. Gua sha massage – an ancient Chinese technique that improves skin firmness and stimulates collagen production. Regular facial massage can significantly improve the appearance of your skin and help reduce marionette wrinkles. An individual approach to wrinkle reduction Every skin is different, so choosing the right method to reduce marionette wrinkles depends on your individual needs and skin condition. People who want more spectacular results may consider combining natural methods with professional aesthetic medicine treatments. Before deciding on more advanced procedures, it is worth consulting an experienced specialist who will help you choose the most effective solution adapted to the condition of your skin. To effectively prevent wrinkles, including marionette lines, and reduce their visibility, it is worth paying attention to several key aspects: Encouragement to take care of your skin in a holistic way A holistic approach to skin care involves taking into account both external and internal factors that affect its condition. In addition to using the right cosmetics, it is important to maintain emotional balance, a healthy diet and physical activity. Stress and muscle tension can negatively affect the condition of the skin, so relaxation techniques such as meditation or yoga can be helpful in maintaining its healthy appearance. Is it worth consulting a specialist to choose the best method to combat wrinkles? Consultation with an experienced specialist, such as a dermatologist or cosmetologist, is recommended to select the most appropriate methods of prevention and wrinkle reduction. After assessing the condition of the skin, the specialist can propose individually tailored treatments and advise on daily care, which increases the effectiveness of anti-aging actions. Remember that a comprehensive approach to skin care, taking into account both external and internal actions, is the key to maintaining a healthy and youthful appearance.
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aromatherapy - basic information
Aromatherapy is a field of natural medicine that uses essential oils to improve mental and physical health. Its origins date back to ancient civilizations, where fragrant plant substances were used for medicinal and ritual purposes. Modern aromatherapy is based on scientific research and traditional knowledge of the properties of plants. The purpose of this article is to present the basics of aromatherapy and its applications in various aspects of health and beauty, as well as to discuss selected essential oils from Asia. What is Aromatherapy? Definition of aromatherapy Aromatherapy is a form of complementary therapy that uses natural essential oils to improve well-being and health. These oils are extracted from various parts of plants, such as flowers, leaves, bark and roots, and have a variety of therapeutic properties. Their effects include both the nervous system and the physiology of the body, and their effectiveness has been confirmed by numerous scientific studies. History The first mentions of aromatherapy come from ancient Egypt, where oils were used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. In ancient India and China, oils were an integral part of Ayurvedic medicine and traditional Chinese medicine. The Greeks and Romans also used aromatic substances for baths, massages and treatment of diseases. In the Middle Ages, essential oils were widely used in Europe for disinfecting rooms and treating infectious diseases. The development of modern aromatherapy René-Maurice Gattefossé, a French chemist, introduced the term "aromatherapy" in 1937 after discovering the healing properties of lavender oil, which accelerated the healing of his burns. From that moment on, aromatherapy began to develop as a science and found application in natural medicine. Modern aromatherapy combines chemical, biological and pharmacological research, which allows for a better understanding of the mechanisms of action of essential oils. Aromatherapy Basics Essential Oils Essential oils are natural, volatile fragrance substances obtained from various parts of plants, such as leaves, flowers, bark, stems, seeds, or roots. They are highly concentrated extracts that contain unique chemical compounds responsible for their characteristic scent and therapeutic properties. Essential oils are widely used in aromatherapy, cosmetics, natural medicine, and the perfume and food industries. Essential oils contain chemical compounds such as terpenes, phenols, and esters that have antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory effects. If you are curious about how essential oils are made, we explain below. There are several methods for extracting essential oils, and the choice of the appropriate technique depends on the type of plant and the desired properties of the final product. The most commonly used methods include: Steam distillation – the most popular method, which involves passing hot steam through plant material. The steam releases the oil, which is then condensed and separated from the water. This technique is used, among others, to obtain lavender, peppermint or eucalyptus oil. Cold pressing – used mainly for citrus fruits such as oranges, lemons and grapefruits. Oils are extracted by mechanically squeezing the peel of the fruit without using high temperatures, which preserves their freshness and aroma intensity. Solvent extraction – used for plants that are difficult to extract oil from traditionally. The plant material is treated with organic solvents (e.g. ethanol) that dissolve the oil and then evaporated, leaving a concentrated extract. This method is often used to extract oils from jasmine or rose. Enfleurage – a historical method used to extract oils from delicate flowers such as jasmine or tuberose. It involves the absorption of fragrances by vegetable or animal fats, which are then separated from the oil. Raw materials in aromatherapy Hydrolates, macerates and carrier oils are key raw materials in aromatherapy and natural care. Each of these products has its own unique properties and applications, and their proper selection allows you to create effective and safe blends for body care and aromatherapy. Hydrolates Hydrolates, also known as floral waters, are by-products of steam distillation of essential oils. They contain small amounts of essential oils and valuable plant compounds soluble in water. As a result, they have a gentle care effect and are safe to use without dilution. Hydrolates have toning, moisturizing and soothing properties, which makes them an excellent ingredient in natural cosmetics. They can be used as: Facial tonics – refresh the skin, restore its natural pH and prepare it for further care. Bases for masks and DIY cosmetics – mixed with e.g. cosmetic clays or aloe gels. Natural body and hair mists – refresh and moisturize the skin and hair. Examples of popular hydrolates include rose hydrolate , which soothes and moisturizes dry and mature skin, lavender hydrolate , ideal for oily and acne-prone skin, and chamomile hydrolate , which has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Macerates Macerates are vegetable oils in which plant parts (flowers, leaves, roots) are macerated for a longer period of time. This process allows for the extraction of valuable active ingredients, which then enrich the properties of the base oil. Macerates are rich in antioxidants, vitamins and fatty acids, which is why they are used in skin and hair care. Depending on the plant used, they can have different effects: Calendula macerate – has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, ideal for sensitive and irritated skin. St. John's wort macerate – has regenerative and analgesic effects, but remember that it is photosensitizing and should not be used before exposure to the sun. Carrot macerate – rich in beta-carotene, improves skin tone and gives it a healthy glow. Macerates are a great ingredient in massage oils, creams and balms, and can also be used on their own as natural cosmetics for body and hair care. Carrier oils Carrier oils are natural plant oils used to dilute essential oils before applying them to the skin. Because essential oils are so concentrated, using them undiluted can lead to irritation. Carrier oils not only help to soften the effects of essential oils, but also have skincare properties of their own. The most popular carrier oils are: Jojoba oil – a light, easily absorbed oil with a structure similar to the sebum of human skin, thanks to which it perfectly moisturizes and regulates sebum secretion. Coconut oil – rich in fatty acids, has moisturizing, smoothing and antibacterial properties, often used in hair and body care. Almond oil – delicate, suitable for sensitive and children's skin, has a regenerating and nourishing effect. Grape seed oil – light, quickly absorbed and does not clog pores, recommended for oily and combination skin. Carrier oils can be used on their own as skin and hair care cosmetics or as a base for massages, balms and home cosmetics. Application methods in aromatherapy Aromatherapy, as a field that uses volatile plant compounds to improve physical and mental health, offers a variety of ways to apply essential oils. The choice of the appropriate method depends on both individual therapeutic needs and the properties of a specific essential oil. Among the most commonly used techniques are inhalation and massage , which are characterized by different mechanisms of action and effectiveness depending on the application. Inhalation – introducing essential oils into the body through the respiratory system One of the basic ways of using essential oils in aromatherapy is inhalation , which is the process of inhaling volatile active substances. This mechanism allows the molecules of essential oils to quickly penetrate the respiratory system and bloodstream, resulting in their almost immediate action. Inhalation affects both the respiratory system and the nervous system, thanks to which it is used in the treatment of respiratory infections, relieving stress and improving concentration. There are several methods of inhalation: Ultrasonic diffusers – devices that disperse essential oils in the form of microscopic water particles, which enables effective air humidification and gentle inhalation. They are commonly used in relaxation therapy and health prevention. Aroma burners – a classic method of heating essential oils with a candle. The heat releases volatile substances that spread into the air, creating an atmosphere conducive to relaxation and relief. Personal inhalers – portable devices, often in the form of sticks or masks, enabling direct inhalation of concentrated essential oils. They are mainly used to relieve symptoms of colds, allergies and to improve mental well-being. Inhalation is considered one of the safest methods of using essential oils, but it requires following the recommendations regarding concentrations and exposure time to avoid possible side effects, such as irritation of mucous membranes or allergic reactions. Aromatherapy massage - transdermal absorption of active substances Another effective method of applying essential oils is their use in the form of aromatherapy massage . Unlike inhalation, in which oils are introduced into the body through the respiratory tract, massage uses transdermal penetration of active substances through the skin. This allows for not only a local therapeutic effect, but also a systemic effect on the body. Aromatherapy massages are performed using essential oils diluted in base oils such as almond, jojoba or coconut oil. Vegetable fats act as a carrier, facilitating the absorption of oils and preventing skin irritation. Aromatherapy massage therapy has a wide range of effects, including: Reduction of muscle tension – oils with warming and analgesic effects, such as eucalyptus or rosemary oil, support muscle regeneration and relieve pain. Improving blood and lymph circulation – massage with the addition of citrus or ginger oils stimulates the circulatory system, helping to eliminate toxins and improve the condition of the skin. Relaxation and stress reduction effects – lavender, ylang-ylang and bergamot oils affect the nervous system, supporting relaxation and improving the quality of sleep. Due to their versatile properties, aromatherapy massages are used both in relaxation therapies and in the treatment of pain, sleep disorders and dermatological problems. Asian Oils and Their Uses Jasmine oil - relaxation and stress reduction Jasmine oil is obtained from Jasminum officinale flowers and comes mainly from India and Thailand. It is characterized by an intense, floral scent that has been used in perfumery and traditional medicine for centuries. Aromatherapeutic properties: Calming and anti-anxiety effects – studies show that jasmine oil can lower cortisol levels (a stress hormone), helping to reduce tension and anxiety ( Seifritz et al., 2010 ). Antidepressant effect – according to research by Hongratanaworakit (2009), inhalation of jasmine oil increases brain activity and improves mood, which may be helpful in treating depression. Aphrodisiac properties – its exotic scent stimulates the senses and may increase libido. Jasmine essential oil is often used in relaxing massages, aromatherapy baths and as a natural remedy to improve the quality of sleep. Sandalwood Oil - Harmony and Skin Care Sandalwood ( Santalum album ) comes primarily from India and has been used for centuries in meditation rituals and body care. Sandalwood oil has a warm, woody aroma that promotes relaxation and inner peace. Aromatherapeutic properties: Relaxation and meditation effects – sandalwood oil increases the serotonin level in the brain, which promotes relaxation and improved well-being ( Setzer, 2009 ). Anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties – it is effective in treating acne and skin irritations, as confirmed by clinical studies on the dermatological applications of sandalwood oil ( Burdock & Carabin, 2008 ). Soothing effect in states of nervous tension – used in aromatherapy, it helps in the treatment of insomnia and anxiety. Its valuable properties make it a popular ingredient in anti-aging cosmetics and massage oils. Rose oil - antioxidant and mood improvement Rose oil comes mainly from Bulgaria, Turkey and some regions of China. It is distilled from the petals of Rosa damascena , and to obtain 1 kg of oil, it takes 4 tons of flowers , making it one of the most expensive oils in the world. Aromatherapeutic properties: Strong antioxidant effect – rose oil contains phenolic compounds that protect the skin against oxidative stress and aging ( Nassiri-Asl & Hosseinzadeh, 2016 ). Antidepressant and mood-enhancing effects – studies confirm that inhalation of rose oil helps reduce symptoms of depression and improves serotonin levels ( Conrad & Adams, 2014 ). Relieves nervous tension – used in aromatherapy, it helps lower blood pressure and reduces the symptoms of stress. Due to its properties, rose oil is often used in perfumery, cosmetology and relaxation therapy. Lemongrass Oil – The Antibacterial Power of Nature Lemongrass ( Cymbopogon citratus ) is native to Southeast Asia and is widely used in Ayurvedic medicine. Lemongrass oil has a fresh, citrus scent with stimulating and cleansing properties. Aromatherapeutic properties: Strong antibacterial and antifungal effects – numerous studies have shown that this oil effectively inhibits the growth of bacteria and fungi, including Staphylococcus aureus ( Shah et al., 2011 ). Refreshing and energizing properties – improves concentration, reduces fatigue and has a stimulating effect. Supports the treatment of respiratory infections – inhalation of lemongrass oil can alleviate the symptoms of colds and flu. It is widely used in aromatherapy, natural cleaning products and cleansing cosmetics. Ginger oil - support for the muscular and digestive systems Ginger essential oil ( Zingiber officinale ) is valued for its analgesic and warming properties. Aromatherapeutic properties: Relieves muscle and joint pain – when applied topically, it helps reduce inflammation and reduces muscle tension. Digestive Support – Ginger oil stimulates the secretion of digestive juices, which can help relieve bloating and indigestion. Ylang-ylang oil – deep relaxation and improved well-being Ylang-ylang essential oil comes from the flowers of Cananga odorata and is commonly used in aromatherapy for its relaxing properties. Aromatherapeutic properties: Calming and antidepressant effects – studies have shown that this oil can lower blood pressure and have a relaxing effect on the nervous system ( Hongratanaworakit, 2011 ). Mood improvement and stress reduction – the intense, floral scent affects the production of serotonin and helps fight anxiety. It is used in relaxing massages, aromatherapy baths and as an ingredient in exotic perfumes. Does Aromatherapy Help with Depression? Aromatherapy can be an effective complement to traditional treatments for depression, although it should not be used as the sole form of therapy. Essential oils used in aromatherapy can help alleviate symptoms of depression, such as stress, anxiety, and sleep disorders, by stimulating the nervous system and influencing mood. Mood Effects : Essential oils like lavender, bergamot, and geranium can improve mood and reduce stress. Their scents stimulate the release of neurotransmitters like serotonin and dopamine, which are important for regulating mood. Improve Sleep Quality : Aromatherapy can help regulate sleep, which is important in treating depression. Lavender oil, for example, has been shown to have a beneficial effect on sleep quality. Anxiety Reduction : Essential oils like bergamot and lavender can help reduce the anxiety and stress that often accompany depression. Best Essential Oils for Depression Lavender Oil : Soothes nerves, helps reduce stress and anxiety, and improves sleep. Bergamot Oil : Energizes and improves mood, reducing stress and anxiety. Geranium Oil : Helps regulate emotions and improve mood. Peppermint Oil : Stimulates and refreshes, helping to improve concentration and energy. In conclusion, aromatherapy can be a valuable support in the treatment of depression, but it should not replace professional medical help. Can aromatherapy be combined with pharmacology? Aromatherapy can be used in conjunction with pharmacology as a complement to traditional treatments. Essential oils used in aromatherapy can aid in treating a variety of conditions, such as pain, stress, and anxiety, and improve the patient's overall well-being. However, it is important to use aromatherapy under the care of a qualified professional, especially for those taking medications or having chronic illnesses. Benefits of Combining Aromatherapy with Pharmacology Aromatherapy can increase the effectiveness of some medications. For example, essential oils can enhance the effects of antibiotics. In addition, using aromatherapy can help reduce the unwanted side effects of medications, such as stress or insomnia. Aromatherapy can improve the mood and overall well-being of the patient, which is important in the treatment of mental and physical illnesses. Before starting aromatherapy, especially in combination with medications, consult your doctor or pharmacist. Choose high-quality oils and dilute them appropriately to avoid allergic reactions. Aromatherapy can be effectively combined with other treatments, such as psychotherapy or physiotherapy. In summary, aromatherapy can be an effective complement to pharmacology, but requires appropriate knowledge and specialist care. What are the most common side effects of aromatherapy? Despite the numerous health benefits of aromatherapy, improper use of essential oils can lead to a variety of side effects, including skin reactions, neurological disorders, hormonal problems, and organ toxicity . It is crucial to use oils as directed, avoid consuming them without professional supervision, and conduct allergy testing before applying to the skin. Knowledge of potential side effects allows you to use aromatherapy safely and maximize its positive impact on your health. Allergic reactions and skin irritations Symptoms include rash, itching, redness and swelling of the skin. Allergic reactions and skin irritations are the most common side effects associated with topical use of essential oils. According to studies by Rastogi et al. (2001) and Opdyke (1974), some components of essential oils, such as limonene and linalool, may cause contact reactions in people with hypersensitivity. Furthermore, using oils without prior dilution in carrier oils increases the risk of irritation. It is recommended to perform a skin allergy test before first use. Photosensitivity Symptoms include skin irritation, redness and sunburn. Some essential oils contain photosensitizing compounds that can cause adverse skin reactions when exposed to UV light. Bergamot, lemon, and grapefruit oils in particular contain furanocoumarins, which increase skin sensitivity to sunlight (Durling et al., 2007). People using these oils should avoid sun exposure for at least 12 hours after application. Digestive problems Symptoms include nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Consumption of essential oils, although promoted in some natural medicine, can lead to serious gastrointestinal problems. Studies conducted by Tisserand & Young (2014) indicate that rosemary, peppermint and eucalyptus oils can irritate the gastric mucosa and, in larger doses, cause toxicity of the digestive system. Oral use of oils should only be done under the supervision of specialists. Seizures and neurological problems Symptoms include seizures, dizziness and disorientation. Some essential oils contain neurotoxic compounds that can cause neurological reactions, especially in people with a predisposition to epilepsy. Oils such as camphor, eucalyptus, and sage contain monoterpene ketones, which in large doses can be neurotoxic (Baibars et al., 2018). Studies by Gabilondo et al. (2000) have shown that excessive use of thujone-rich oils can lead to a lowered seizure threshold. Hormonal problems Symptoms include menstrual cycle disturbances and excessive stimulation or weakening of hormonal functions. Some essential oils have estrogen-like effects, meaning they can affect the body's hormonal system. Examples include lavender oil and tea tree oil, which, according to Henley et al. (2007), have been shown to disrupt estrogen receptors. The study found that using these oils in prepubescent boys can lead to gynecomastia (enlargement of the mammary glands). As a result, people with hormone-dependent conditions such as breast cancer or endometriosis should avoid excessive use. Hepatotoxicity and nephrotoxicity Symptoms include symptoms of liver damage (e.g. jaundice) and symptoms of kidney damage Long-term use of some essential oils can lead to liver and kidney toxicity. Oils containing phenols such as thymol, eugenol, and carvacrol have been shown to be hepatotoxic with long-term use (Brunton et al., 2006). Animal studies have shown that excessive exposure to cinnamon and clove oil can increase markers of liver damage. People with liver and kidney disease should use these oils with caution. To avoid these side effects, it is important to use essential oils as directed, diluting them in a carrier oil and conducting allergy testing before first use. Bibliography: Baibars, M., Joubert, O., & Dupont, C. (2018). Neurotoxic effects of essential oils. Toxicology Letters , 295, 65-72. Tisserand, R., & Young, R. (2014). Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals . Churchill Livingstone. Henley, D. V., Lipson, N., Korach, K. S., & Bloch, C. A. (2007). Prepubertal gynecomastia linked to lavender and tea tree oils. The New England Journal of Medicine , 356(5), 479-485. Durling, N. E., Catchpole, O. J., Gray, J. B., Webby, R. F., Mitchell, K. A., Foo, L. Y., & Perry, N. B. (2007). Extraction of phenolic compounds from plant material using supercritical CO2. The Journal of Supercritical Fluids , 42(3), 256-264.
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polysaccharides in cosmetics
Polysaccharides constitute an important group of active ingredients in cosmetology, characterized by a wide spectrum of biological and physicochemical properties. POLYSACCHARIDES - WHAT ARE THEY? These are polysaccharides composed of monosaccharides linked by glycosidic bonds. Due to their structure and ability to bind water, they have significant moisturizing, protective and regenerative effects. Particular attention should be paid to natural polysaccharides, which are mainly obtained from plants, algae, microorganisms and fungi. Their presence in cosmetics not only improves the sensory properties of the preparations, but also shows numerous dermatological benefits. The occurrence of polysaccharides in plants Polysaccharides occur naturally in various groups of plants, including vegetables, fruits, seeds, and algae. Starch, one of the major plant polysaccharides, is stored in potatoes, corn, rice, wheat, and bananas. Cellulose, in turn, is a structural component of plant cell walls and is abundant in cotton, wood, and leafy vegetables such as spinach and cabbage. Other important plant polysaccharides include pectins found in apples and citrus fruits and hemicelluloses found in cereal grains and legumes. TYPES OF PLANT POLYSACCHARIDES Polysaccharides are high-molecular-weight carbohydrates that play a key role in the plant world, serving both a reserve and structural function. Depending on the chemical structure and biological function, different groups of these compounds can be distinguished, such as starch, cellulose, beta-glucans and plant mucilages. They occur in many plant species, which are important both in the human diet and in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. One of the most important polysaccharides in plants is starch, which acts as a reserve material. It is found primarily in cereal grains such as wheat, corn, rice, oats and barley, which are the basis of nutrition for people around the world. The tubers and roots of some plants are also rich in starch, including potatoes, sweet potatoes, cassava (from which tapioca is obtained) and Jerusalem artichoke. In addition, legumes, such as beans, peas, lentils and chickpeas, also contain significant amounts of starch, and additionally provide plant protein. Another important polysaccharide is cellulose, which has a structural function and is the main component of plant cell walls. It is thanks to it that plants maintain their stiffness and resistance to external factors. Cellulose is found in large quantities in leafy vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce, spinach and kale, as well as in fruits and vegetables rich in fiber, including apples (especially in the skin), pears, carrots and beets. Raw materials rich in cellulose are also fibrous plants, such as flax, hemp and cotton, which are used, among others, for the production of fabrics and paper. In addition to starch and cellulose, plants also contain other polysaccharides with biologically active effects. Particularly valuable are beta-glucans, which can be found in some mushrooms, such as shiitake, reishi, and maitake. These compounds have immunomodulatory properties and support the body's immunity. Another valuable source of polysaccharides are seaweeds, especially brown and red algae, which contain agar, carrageenan and alginates. These substances have found wide application in the food and pharmaceutical industries as natural thickeners and stabilizers. Another group of polysaccharides are plant mucilages, which have protective and moisturizing properties, which is why they are often used in natural medicine and cosmetology. Plants rich in mucilages are primarily flaxseed, marshmallow root, psyllium and psyllium seeds, as well as aloe, which contains acemannan, a polysaccharide known for its anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties. Plants rich in polysaccharides are an extremely valuable part of the diet and a raw material with a wide range of applications. Starch provides energy, cellulose supports the proper functioning of the digestive system, and biologically active polysaccharides can strengthen immunity and support health. It is therefore worth including a variety of plant products in your daily diet to fully enjoy the benefits of these extraordinary compounds. Types of polysaccharides according to the number of molecules in the chains Polysaccharides can be classified based on their chain length and degree of complexity: Homopolysaccharides – consist of one type of monosaccharide. Examples include starch and cellulose (made of glucose) and chitin (made of N-acetylglucosamine). Heteropolysaccharides – contain different types of monosaccharides. Examples include glycosaminoglycans, such as hyaluronic acid, heparin, and chondroitin sulfate. In terms of chain length, we can also distinguish: Oligosaccharides – short chains (2–10 sugar units), e.g. fructooligosaccharides found in plants. High-molecular-weight polysaccharides – long chains, often with a complex structure, e.g. cellulose, hemicelluloses, xanthan gum. Natural polysaccharides in cosmetology Polysaccharides of natural origin are key components of moisturizing, anti-aging and protective cosmetics. Their ability to create protective films on the skin surface makes them effective in protecting the epidermis from water loss and the adverse effects of environmental factors. For example, polysaccharides in cosmetology are starch, cellulose, xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum), beta-glucan (Beta Glucan) and the unique biosaccharide gum-1 (Biosaccharide Gum-1), which are characterized by specific properties and mechanisms of action. Xanthan Gum – stabilizer and moisturizing agent Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris in the process of fermenting sugars. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, emulsion stabilizer and film former. Thanks to its ability to bind water, it acts as an effective humectant, supporting skin hydration and improving the texture of cosmetic products. In addition, it has soothing properties, making it suitable for sensitive and irritation-prone skin. Xanthan Gum does not cause allergic reactions and is well tolerated by the skin, which makes it widely used in natural cosmetics and dermocosmetics. Beta-Glucan (Beta Glucan) – an immunomodulator and regenerating substance Beta-glucan is a polysaccharide of plant and fungal origin, known for its immunomodulatory and antioxidant properties. In cosmetics, it is used primarily for its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, which helps improve skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles. In addition, it has anti-inflammatory effects, supporting the regenerative processes of the epidermis and strengthening the skin's protective barrier. Thanks to its ability to deeply moisturize, beta-glucan reduces skin roughness, improves its softness and soothes irritations, which makes it a valuable ingredient in preparations dedicated to dry, sensitive and atopic skin. Biosaccharide Gum-1 – long-lasting hydration and anti-aging effect Biosaccharide gum-1 is a biotechnologically obtained polysaccharide, synthesized in the process of bacterial fermentation. It is valued in cosmetology for its strong moisturizing and soothing properties. It can be found in Kantola Facial Cleansing Foam. The mechanism of action of this substance is based on the formation of a protective film on the skin surface, which leads to a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and ensuring a long-lasting moisturizing effect. Biosaccharide Gum-1 also has anti-aging properties, as it reduces oxidative stress and microwrinkles. Thanks to its soothing effect, this ingredient is used in preparations for sensitive skin and in cosmetics with regenerative and protective effects. Application of polysaccharides in other industries Polysaccharides are widely used not only in cosmetology, but also in many other industries where their structural, thickening and biological properties are used. Food Industry – Polysaccharides such as starch, pectin, agar and carrageenan are used as thickeners, emulsifiers and gelling agents. Cellulose is used as dietary fibre and xanthan gum improves food consistency and stabilises emulsions. Pharmaceuticals and medicine – hyaluronic acid and chitosan are widely used in dermatological, ophthalmic and wound care products. Beta-glucan supports the immune system, and heparin is used as an anticoagulant. Textile and paper industry – cellulose is the basic component of cotton fabrics and paper. Modified polysaccharides are used in the treatment of fabrics and as components of biodegradable packaging. Biotechnology and environmental protection – polysaccharides such as alginates and chitosan are used in tissue engineering and as biodegradable materials. They are also used in water purification processes and the production of bioplastics. Hyaluronic acid – a key polysaccharide in cosmetology and medicine Hyaluronic acid (HA) is one of the most important polysaccharides used in cosmetology and medicine. It is a glycosaminoglycan that occurs naturally in the skin, synovial fluid, vitreous humor of the eye and connective tissues of the body. Its main feature is the ability to bind water - one HA molecule can bind up to a thousand times more water than its mass. The structure and properties of hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid consists of repeating disaccharide units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. Its structure allows the formation of dense networks that retain water in tissues, providing the skin with hydration, elasticity and smoothness. The use of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics and medicine Properties of hyaluronic acid and its importance in cosmetology Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural polysaccharide belonging to glycosaminoglycans, which plays a key role in maintaining skin hydration, elasticity and integrity. It is present in the extracellular matrix, where it has a hygroscopic function, capable of binding water molecules at a level even thousand times greater than its mass. Thanks to this unique property, hyaluronic acid has found wide application in cosmetology, especially in moisturizing, anti-aging and regenerating products. Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient in numerous cosmetic products used in facial, body and hair care. Its ability to retain water in the epidermal layers results in increased hydration, which helps improve firmness, elasticity and smooth out fine lines. As a result, it is widely used in: Moisturizing and anti-aging creams , where it prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and supports the reconstruction of the skin's hydrolipid layer. Lifting serums that contain HA in combination with other active ingredients, e.g. peptides or vitamin C, enhancing the effect of skin smoothing and firming. Moisturizing masks , providing immediate hydration and nourishment to the skin by increasing moisture retention. Eye care products that reduce the visibility of dark circles and puffiness, and improve the elasticity of the skin around the eyes, preventing the formation of facial wrinkles. Hair care cosmetics , where it prevents drying and brittleness by creating a protective film on the hair surface that prevents moisture loss. Medical use of hyaluronic acid In addition to its wide use in cosmetology, hyaluronic acid is of great importance in medicine, especially in dermatology, orthopedics, ophthalmology and wound therapy. Its biocompatibility, biodegradability and ability to bind water make it a valuable component of many medical procedures. Aesthetic Dermatology : Hyaluronic acid is the basis of many preparations used in aesthetic medicine. Fillers containing HA are used to reduce wrinkles, model the face oval and improve volume around the cheeks, lips and temples. Thanks to its ability to bind water, HA provides an immediate filling effect and long-term moisturizing effect. Orthopedics : Intra-articular injections are used to treat osteoarthritis (OA). HA acts as a synovial fluid substitute, improving the viscosity and elasticity of synovial fluid, which results in reduced friction between joint surfaces and reduced pain and inflammation. Ophthalmology : Hyaluronic acid is a component of eye drops used to treat dry eye syndrome. Its moisturizing and protective properties support the regeneration of the corneal epithelium and reduce the feeling of dryness and burning eyes. Wound healing : HA has properties that support the tissue regeneration process, which is used in the treatment of difficult-to-heal wounds, burns and ulcers. Its ability to stimulate fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis accelerates the healing process and the reconstruction of the epidermis. Gynecology : Hyaluronic acid is used to treat vaginal dryness and to support the regeneration of the mucosal epithelium after gynecological procedures. Its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties improve the comfort of women struggling with atrophy of the mucous membranes. Various forms of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics and medicine The effectiveness of hyaluronic acid depends largely on the size of its molecules. There are three basic forms of HA, which differ in their ability to penetrate the skin and their mechanism of action: High molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HMW-HA) : Creates an occlusive layer on the skin surface that limits water loss. It works primarily at the epidermis level, improving hydration and reducing the feeling of dryness. Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid (MMW-HA) : It is able to penetrate the epidermal layer, thanks to which it improves skin elasticity and tension. It can support regeneration and smoothing of fine wrinkles. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA) : Penetrates deepest into the skin structures, where it stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis. Supports repair processes and has anti-aging effects, improving skin density. Natural polysaccharides play a key role in cosmetology, offering multifaceted benefits to the skin. Their ability to intensively moisturize, protect against external factors and support regenerative processes makes them widely used in modern skin care cosmetics.
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DOSA - INDIAN PANCAKE BUT SO DIFFERENT
Whenever I am in India I eat dosa whenever I can. I love dosa rolled up and very crispy – the kind that you can break with your fingers. Indian cuisine delights with a variety of flavors and aromas, and one of its most characteristic dishes is dosa - a thin, crispy pancake made from fermented rice and lentil dough. This dish comes from southern India, where it is an everyday breakfast classic, but has gained popularity all over the world. Thanks to its lightness, crunchiness and richness of additives, dosa is an excellent proposition for both lovers of exotic flavors and people looking for healthy alternatives in the kitchen. DOSA - History and Origin Dosa has a long and rich history, dating back thousands of years. It was first mentioned in ancient Sanskrit texts and is believed to have originated in Tamil Nadu. Over the years, dosa spread to other South Indian states like Karnataka, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh, where local variations were created. Initially prepared as a simple dish for pilgrims and monks, it quickly became an integral part of Indian street food and home cooking. Types of dosa One of the greatest things about dosa is its versatility. While the classic version is the most common, there are many variations that vary in taste, texture, and serving. Masala dosa – one of the most popular versions, containing a filling of potatoes seasoned with curry, onion and spices. Often served with coconut chutney and sambar. Plain dosa – plain, without filling, but crispy and light. Perfect for dipping in various sauces and dips. Rava dosa – made with semolina instead of fermented rice dough. It is thinner and crispier, and its preparation does not require a long wait. Mysore dosa – a spicier variety in which the pancake is spread with hot chili sauce before adding the filling. Neer dosa – a more delicate and softer version, prepared with thin rice dough, typical of Karnataka cuisine. Ingredients and preparation The basic ingredients for dosa are very simple: rice, urad dal, water and a pinch of salt. The key step in the preparation is fermentation, which not only gives the batter a slightly sour taste but also makes the dosa easier to digest. How to make dosa step by step? Soaking the ingredients – Soak the rice and urad dal separately for about 6 hours, then grind them until they form a smooth, slightly pourable dough. Fermentation – We leave the dough overnight in a warm place. Fermentation makes it fluffier and gives it a slightly sour aroma. Frying – Heat a pan, grease it with a thin layer of oil and spread a thin layer of dough, creating a round pancake. Fry on medium heat until golden and crispy. Serving – We can serve dosa with various additions like sambar, coconut chutney or ghee. Additions and methods of administration Dosa tastes delicious on its own, but it's the additions that make it a culinary treat. In India, it's usually served with: Sambar – a spicy, thick soup of lentils, vegetables and tamarind. Coconut chutney – a creamy, slightly sweet addition based on coconut, green chilies and cashew nuts. Tomato or mint chutney – refreshing sauces that give the dosa an additional flavor accent. Ghee – a bit of clarified butter on hot dosa highlights its unique flavour. Why is it worth trying dosa? Dosa is not only a tasty dish, but also a healthy one. Thanks to fermentation, it is easily digestible and rich in probiotics that support intestinal flora. In addition, it is naturally gluten-free and can be adapted to various diets - both vegan and high-protein. It is a great alternative to traditional pancakes and an ideal suggestion for breakfast or a light dinner. Dosa can be eaten by people on a gluten-free diet because the dough is made of black urid lentils and rice flour. Frying on a flat, heated baking sheet adds crunchiness. In fact, only in India do I come across crispy dosas. I don't think any Indian restaurant in Warsaw makes them like this, which is a shame. Plain dosa, or the pancake itself, is usually served with a variety of chutneys - from spicy to sweet. Usually, coconut, mint, tamarind or tomato chutneys are served. They are white, green and orange - like the Indian flag. Now that's culinary patriotism In one restaurant in Delhi, the dosa served to me was about a metre long If you are in Delhi I can recommend Saravana Bhavan restaurant on Janpath Road. Very affordable prices, looks like a cheap bar but they serve great dosa and other Indian delicacies. Or maybe you've already had a chance to try dosa? Share your impressions in the comments.
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Hair cosmetics - how much to use?
In a world where shelves are brimming with products and hair care products are available in countless varieties, it's easy to overdo it. More mousse, more mask, more oil - but is that really what your hair needs? Proper dosing of cosmetics is the key to effective, but also safe care. In this guide, we explain how much hair care to use depending on its length - to avoid weighing it down while still providing it with everything it needs. Why does the right amount of cosmetic matter? Using too many hair products can have the opposite effect to the intended one. Instead of soft and shiny strands, we get flat, greasy or stiff hair from too many stylers. In some cases, it can even irritate the scalp and cause so-called cosmetic dandruff. What's more, excessive use of products is also a waste of money. Care should not only be effective, but also economical - especially if you use professional or natural cosmetics, which are often more expensive. Hair cosmetics - quantity depending on length? Before we get into specific quantities, it’s worth determining what hair length applies to you: Short hair – to the jaw line, Medium hair – from jaw to collarbone, Long hair – below the collarbones. Remember that it is not only the length that matters, but also the density, porosity and thickness of the hair – the more hair, the more product may be needed. However, even in this case, the rule applies: start with a smaller amount and add only when necessary. Shampoo – less is more Many people mistakenly believe that the more shampoo, the better the effect. In fact, a really small amount is enough to effectively cleanse the scalp and hair: Short hair – an amount the size of a hazelnut. Long hair – a walnut-sized amount (or two hazelnut-sized portions). TIP: Dilute the shampoo with water in your hands or use an applicator cup. Lathering it before applying helps distribute it evenly and reduces the risk of drying out the scalp. Conditioner and mask – hair cosmetics used in moderation, especially at the roots Conditioners and masks are hair products that are supposed to nourish and smooth, but they can easily weigh down your strands – especially if you apply them too close to your scalp. Here are the recommended amounts: Short hair – 1 hazelnut-sized portion, for ends only. Long hair – 2–3 hazelnut-sized amounts (or 1–2 teaspoons). Use masks a maximum of 1-2 times a week. Apply them from mid-length, avoiding the roots, especially in the case of thin or quickly greasy hair. Hair End Serum/Oil – Minimalism is the Key Silicone or oil products for ends are ideal hair cosmetics to protect against breakage and split ends. But precision really counts here: Short hair – 1 drop spread between fingers. Long hair – 2–3 drops, applied from mid-length. Never rub oils into the scalp (unless it is a specialist lotion) – they can clog the follicles and lead to greasiness or irritation. Mists, lotions and leave-in hair cosmetics – controlled application These hair products are lightweight, but can also be heavy if applied in excess. It is worth observing moderation when applying: Short hair – 3–4 sprays from a distance of 20–30 cm. Long hair – 5–8 sprays, applied in layers. In the case of lotions, application concerns the scalp – dose according to the manufacturer’s recommendations and massage for 1–2 minutes. Styling – hair mousses, creams and pastes Styling products can be tricky – it’s easy to overdo it and end up with “glued” hair. Here are the suggested doses: Short hair – a pea-sized portion. Long hair – walnut-sized mousse, styling cream – approx. 1 teaspoon. Tip: Always start with a small amount. If the effect is too weak, you can add another layer. Summary – the principle of “less but precise” Hair cosmetics work best when used in moderation. The key to success is not quantity, but quality of application and matching to hair length and structure. Too much will not make hair more beautiful - on the other hand, it can weigh it down, accelerate greasiness or cause skin problems. In hair care, less really is more. Watch your hair, dose wisely and choose hair products consciously – then your hair will reward you with health and shine.
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